By Jamie Barys & Kyle Patrick Long

Mo’ Laksa

What: A no-frills Southeast Asian noodle joint

Where: 208 Xinle Lu, near Donghu Lu. Tel: 3461 5657

Why: Hearty helpings of the Singaporean specialty

How Much: Appetisers RMB 25 – 48; Laksa RMB 48 – 118

In a city where restaurant menus can sprawl to the lengths of novels, it’s a relief to see Mo’ Laksa enter the scene. Like the name suggests, the noodle house is here to do one thing: the rich and creamy coconut curry noodle soup better known throughout Southeast Asia as laksa.

From the decidedly minimalist décor to the riffs on its excessive moniker, Mo’ Laksa opts for a fun-loving, laidback atmosphere. Nowhere do they succeed better at this than with their musical selection. After all, who doesn’t love slurping down a bowl of noodles to the strains of the Ferris Bueller’s Day Off soundtrack?

While all the lead-up makes a good first impression, it’s the main event that has people excited. Unfortunately, the hotly anticipated laksa doesn’t quite measure up. Waiters vehemently steer laowai away from the ‘hot’ option no matter how adamantly you declare your desire for a tingly tongue. The only other option is the misnamed ‘spicy’, denoted by a single chili that doesn’t assert itself enough to merit ordering their 1.25 L Mo’ Beer Tiger Challenge.

Mo’ Laksa may not be delivering on the spice, but they make up for that shortcoming with sheer size. Our regular-sized Mo’ Balls bowl featured unpalatable spheres of beef, fish and cuttlefish that were mostly left to the float in the vast ocean of curry soup. Beyond laksa, the restaurant makes an impressive satay accompanied by a sinfully delicious peanut-chili oil dipping sauce. A good, but forgettable plate of sambal morning glory rounded out the meal.

To really live up to its name, Mo’ Laksa needs to deliver mo’ spice, but the restaurant is still a work in progress. We can only foresee the recipe getting better from here, so we’ll be back for more – or at least a pork satay or two.