New & Noted: Bang

By Jamie Barys, 2014-05

 

What: The latest in rustic Italian from Craig Willis

Where: 5F, IAPM Mall, 999 Huaihai Zhong Lu, near Xiangyang Lu. Tel: 6483 2066. Web: www.mrwillis.com.cn

Why: Tried-and-true classics from an old China hand

 

You’ve probably had Craig Willis’ food before. As the executive chef of the Wagas group, the native Australian conquered the fast-casual scene with the group’s ubiquitous namesake cafes, got his hands in the flour at Baker & Spice and delved into Asian fare with Sushi Raku and Mi Thai. He’s spent considerable time focusing on the cuisine of Italy (Henkes, La Strada) and his antipodean homeland (Mr Willis). Perhaps the sound of good things colliding, Bang, his latest restaurant, brings together the latter three restaurants in one simple concept.

Tucked away in IAPM mall, Bang is actually two restaurants side-by-side. The café has premade sandwiches and salads, but we’ll focus on the bistro next door. Here, the décor is so well done, you forget you’re in a mall once you walk through the storefront, distracted as you’ll be by a bustling open kitchen kitted out with a chalkboard featuring today’s fresh catch. Stunning blue French tiles under blonde wood tables and country chairs used as wall art do the rest.

Dishes remain the same through lunch and dinner and look like a “Willis’ Greatest Hits” album, borrowing heavily from his other restaurants to remix a menu that will keep old fans happy while also exciting those just discovering his catalogue. Want a taste of La Strada? The giant gilded pizza oven at the entrance wood-fires 12 of pizzeria’s thin crust pies. Craving Mr Willis’ famous roast chicken? It’s on the menu (RMB 115 for half, RMB 195 for the whole bird) and tastes exactly the same as at Anfu Lu - as does the smoked salmon (RMB 85), one of the best iterations of the antipasti in town.

Most of the dishes seem like a slightly dressed-down version of those served at Henkes, but bruschetta here wouldn’t be out of place at the upscale Reel Plaza trattoria. Spring fresh sweet pea bruschetta (RMB 48) draped with salty prosciutto crudo is made even more seasonal with fleeting broad beans and sprigs of mint. The same charred toast slathered with goat’s cheese (RMB 48) is as simple as it delicious, crowned with juicy onyx grapes and crunchy walnuts.

Handmade pasta is practically showing off. Tortellini stuffed with sweet ricotta and spinach (RMB 78) is brightened by a pungent rocket and walnut pesto and latticed with parmesan. Our only gripe? Grilled lamb ordered medium rare was served blue, but atop a sweet and sour eggplant caponata so delicious it has its own place on the menu as a side dish (RMB 35) – an excellent call.

It seems that Craig Willis has his fingers on the pulse (or should we say taste buds?) of the city. We’ll be back for more of exactly what we want.