Ma Ke’s Anti-Fashion World
Ma Ke is simultaneously one of China’s most well known designers – dresser of first ladies, star of an award-winning documentary from acclaimed Chinese director, Jia Zhangke – and one of the country’s most elusive creative talents.
An inspiration to a generation of newcomers, including Uma Wang, Ma Ke has always eschewed the fast fashion and conspicuous luxury so popular among China’s nouveau riche consumers.
In a rare interview, the designer, who avoids the financial and political power centres of Shanghai and Beijing in order to live a life out of the limelight in the southern coastal city of Zhuhai, spoke about her anti-establishment reputation and the future of fashion in China.
Talk: You have been part of the fashion industry for a long time now, what do you think is the role of fashion today?
Ma Ke: I have been designing for 21 years, but my designs have never been about fashion. Most people describe me as a “fashion world outsider” and that title makes me feel validated.
Design is a very honest work, designers put something in, and that is reflected in the final product. Whether they are putting in the desire for fame or the upmost personal care, these things will be clearly presented.
Talk: What do you hope to achieve with the Wu Yong brand, which has become famous as the first choice of first lady, Peng Liyuan?
M.K.: I created Wu Yong because of a commitment to the protection of traditional folk arts and crafts; its goal is to take handcrafted garments to the world. Every day we walk down this path a little bit. I believe that the direction is always more important than the result.
Talk: You have previously shown collections in Paris, do you have any future plans to showcase Wu Yong internationally?
M.K.: Until now, I have never made plans. If the opportunity comes, I’m ready to take it, but I won’t bother to make something happen.
Talk: Do you believe the Chinese luxury market has developed to the point at which it can accept that domestic luxury brands can be just as good quality as luxury brands from Europe?
M.K.: I want to make clothing that is very plain, if people are over-stimulated; it becomes harder for them to recognise nuances. Today’s fashion trend is for beautiful packaging, but my aim is to get people to see the extraordinary in the very ordinary. I believe that true luxury is not about a price, but is rather about the spirit something represents.
Talk: Many people are watching China's fashion industry now, where do you see China’s fashion landscape heading in the future?
M.K.: There will be more and more people escaping from the shackles of materialism, turning inwards to the spiritual world. There will be more and more people realising that purchasing shouldn’t be impulsive, so there will be a move towards brands with a conscience, those that are sincerely concerned about public health and environmentally friendly practices.
