In Shanghai, the arrival of autumn is not marked by cooler temperatures or crimson leaves – the perceptible change of the seasons happens in wet markets and restaurants as hairy crabs fill buckets and dinner tables. A Shanghainese delicacy known for its sweet flavour, impenetrable shell and shaggy claws worth of a Just So story, this crustacean is in season during September and October. Shanghai TALK decided to undergo a hairy tutorial of crabby proportions this fall, and sat down with locals to learn how to enjoy these chitinous creatures.

How to Select a Hairy Crab

Look for a crab with a very clean, green shell on top, white stomach and golden hair on the claws. Like racehorses, you want a crab foaming at the bit to prove that it is healthy. And even though your mother told you it was cruel to poke animals with sticks, grab any pointy object within reach and take a few cautious jabs at the crab’s tentacle-y eyes. If they retract quickly, you’ve got a winner.

On top of colour and reaction time, shoppers also need to learn about the battle of the sexes. In September, look for females who have a round belly. The male crabs, which are best in October, have a triangular shaped (dare we say phallic?) flap on their stomach. Just remember the saying: “September for circles and October for triangles.”

Shanghai First Food Store. 720 Nanjing Dong Lu, near Guizhou Lu. Tel: 6322 2777

How to Cook a Hairy Crab

Preparing these ocean trawlers isn’t for the squeamish as hairy crabs are cooked live, like lobster. Steaming the crabs is the best method for retaining the meat’s sweet flavour. First bring a pot of water to boil. Then place the live crabs in a bamboo steamer with ginger slices, Shaoxing wine and scallions and put the bamboo steamer over the pot of boiling water. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes depending on the size of the crab (but no longer than 15 as the meat and roe will harden if overcooked). Boiling is an alternative cooking method, but doesn’t yield the same strong flavours. To boil, put all the same ingredients in a pot of boiling water and wait until the crabs turn bright orange. It is important to note that these feisty creatures should remain tied up throughout the cooking process. Just trust us on this one.

Multi-tasking chefs can also whip up a dipping sauce while the crab is cooking. Boil 100g of finely minced ginger root, 250ml of Zhenjiang vinegar, 25g of sugar and a dash of salt together. Let the sauce cool, but don’t let the crabs – you want to eat them while they’re still hot.