In this new column, Shanghai’s most committed dipsomaniacs get together to share and compare some of the wines available around town. It’s a no-nonsense guide to the good, the great and the bloody ordinary of wine. Which one will win the day this month?

Attendees

• Mat Ryan – Partner in JustBeer and Cuvee.

• Luke Haggett – Beer guy responsible for the Leffe.

• Alan Duffy – Partner in JustBeer, F&B guru.

• Glenn Thain-Goslings – Rum importer, but not a pirate.

• Joanna Hoopes – Dragon Crawl and Shanghai Dolls Master (with a black belt in drinking shots).

For Starters – Pure Blonde

Whilst we waited for the crew to assemble at Cuvee, there were a few refreshing warm-ups with Pure Blondes. Imported by JustBeer, it’s a great brew and low carb to boot, not that any of us care. You’ll find plenty of people partaking in this at The Camel, Big Bamboo and in the JustBeer office!

WINE 1 – Clemen Vinho Verde, Portugal (Azu+Wines)

A bit fruity, citrusy even at first taste. Jo said it was perfect for afternoon drinks. Alan recommended pulling the blinds down, putting on a DVD and drinking a bottle. Glenn thought it a bit flat at the finish, but he was overruled by Alan. Luke thought it’d be great for a girl that you wouldn’t bother to buy a bottle of Champagne for. We’re not sure what that means, but most agreed it’s one of those wines you have stocked in your fridge for when friends pop over unannounced. Mat rated the clean-looking label and couldn’t find any major problem with what was inside the bottle either. 

Bar price: RMB 290 per bottle

WINE 2 – James Estate Semillon Chardonnay, Australia (James Estate Wine)

After discussions about Luke being mistaken for Big Foot in Tibet, we moved onto this great value wine from Australia. Imported by a small company, relatively new to the market, it’s a little tough to find at the moment. Mat’s been drinking this wine for a few weeks and is a fan. Everyone liked it. Although it’s not going to be the best white wine you’ve ever had, it’s one of those all-purpose standbys, perfect for BBQs. Alan waxed lyrical about Semillon Chardonnay being a great blend, because of the combination of acidity and the softness. Joanna declared it a girl's wine and Glen rated it one of the best available in this price bracket.

Bar price: RMB 180 per bottle

WINE 3 – Quinta Do Vallado Douro, Portugal (Azu+Wines)

Mat reminisced about his visit to Shanghai’s Vin Portugal back in 2005, when he was writing for this very magazine's wine column. His task was to write about Vin Portugal, but he struggled mightily as all memories of his visit were erased by too many ports. This wine needed a bit of time in the glass, and the heated debate it generated almost brought us to blows – Mat was a big fan. Legs aplenty here, and not just on the girls at our table. Big legs on a wine are generally an indication of high alcohol content, but this one is only 13.5 per cent, which is about average. Luke’s description took the prize for most poetic: “The whiff of petroleum was so strong, I was expecting to find the remnants of a salvage diver in it left over from the BP oil spill,” he said. Luke and Glenn weren’t fans, but Alan liked it and recommended round two along with a plate of venison. “It’s a bloody food wine, and it needs food,” he said.

Bar price: RMB 320 per bottle

To Cleanse – Stella Artois, Vandergeeten

Every good wine session ends with cleansing ale. Mostly consumed from the tap here in Shanghai, we had the bottled version. It offended no one, and gave us the opportunity to mull over the wines.  

Summary 

The whites were the winners (of the wines). The group was split down the middle on which was the best. But the big winners this month are the starting beer and cleansing ale.

Cuvee, 528 Kangding Lu, near Xikang Lu. Tel: 6288 1189. Web: www.cuvee.net.cn. Azu+Wines, email: [email protected]. James Estate Wine, email: [email protected]