Trekking Northwest Vietnam

 

Our trip began in Bac Ha. On weekdays, the town itself is little more than a collection of empty guesthouses lining a single street. We arrived with no booked lodging and had our pick of several options for under $20 a night. Bac Ha can easily be explored on foot. Stroll through Hoang A Tuong Palace, a sprawling, empty French Colonial structure built in the early 1900s, completely out of place among the local architecture. If you're feeling more adventurous, rent a motorbike and follow the roads that weave through rice paddies on the mountains around Bac Ha. Stop over in Ban Pho village for a glimpse into the local lifestyle or take a dip where a refreshing mountain stream pools at the base of a small waterfall. Even without a strict itinerary, it’s hard to go wrong in the beautiful scenery surrounding Bac Ha.

 

 

Every Sunday morning, sleepy Bac Ha is transformed as members of the local hill tribes descend into town for the weekly market hoping to buy and sell livestock, food, clothing and other necessities. Not at all aimed at tourists, the weekly market certainly attracts plenty. The empty hotels fill up and the pace of life escalates dramatically as the streets become packed with stunningly dressed ethnic minorities making their way to and from market. The Flower Hmong are the most vibrant. Women dressed head-to-toe in traditional garb peddle colourful handicrafts while the men, for the most part, sit and drink homemade corn vodka.

 

 

When leaving Bac Ha, catch a minibus back to Lao Cai. From there, the drive to Sapa is a steep climb into the mountains. A long time stop on the backpacker trail, Sapa is the region's tourism hub, sitting in the shadow of Mt. Fansipan, the nation's highest peak. The city has a completely different feel than Bac Ha, where tourism is just beginning to catch on. Instead, busy hotels, restaurants, and souvenirs shops line the streets of the small, dense downtown area. Stop by the daily market for an assortment of Hmong handicrafts and local delicacies or take in the views from any of a number of restaurants overlooking the valley.

 

 

While the crisp air, beautiful views and peaceful feel of the quaint mountain town may be hard to leave behind, the real magic happens on short multi- day treks outside the city. Check out Sapa Sisters; a trekking company organised to benefit women in the local communities. Led by Hmong women, the various treks can accommodate groups of any size and skill level. Regardless of how fit you may be, the twelve year old Hmong girls who accompany each trek will make you feel out of shape, but they'll include plenty of breaks to let you catch your breath.

 

Our guide, Zaazaa, who we found independently, was a 19-year old Black Hmong woman who grew up in the hills surrounding Sapa. She had amazing English and answers to all our questions. Along the way, we stopped for a much needed cool down at a stream where a group of children were jumping from a rock on the bank into the deepest part of the pool. The children were incredibly independent and cared for their even younger siblings while their parents worked in town or in the rice fields. Next, Zaazaa guided us along the narrow paths that led to her childhood home; a humble wooden structure with a dirt floor in Ta Van village. We spent the afternoon chatting with her family as we took in breathtaking views of the endless valley below. That night, we slept at a homestay about an hour’s walk from Zaazaa's parents' house. If you're accustomed to lush accommodations, don't be scared off by the seemingly rustic conditions. Our homestay had hot water, western toilets and even Wi-Fi!