Second Helpings: Capo

Located in the attic of Shanghai’s Rockbund, in a building dating back to 1911, the space was never designed or intended to be used for a fine dining concept, however, Capo took the space and ran with it, and what they created is something extraordinary. Exiting the lift on the fifth floor, we were greeted by a large mural in the reception that recreated the last supper with one giant (yet surprisingly subtle for first time viewers) twist; a Capo coat of arms. This large painting sets the tone for the bustling vibe of the restaurant; a warm, atmospherically lit eatery with vintage wooden floors, rough brick walls, low hanging lights and patterned clay roof tiles. The rustic "cook house" beautifully evokes the image of an ancient European monastery.

The dining room includes a pizza station, with twin wood- and-charcoalfired pizza ovens (both custom-designed and imported from Italy before being hand-built on the premises by an artisan from Naples), a view over to the grill chefs in action, a crudo stand and a bar run by expert mixologists devising delicious cocktails. Three private rooms are also available for those who require exclusive dining including Capo Table, which looks directly into the kitchen and where guests receive a personalised menu, as well as The Wine Room, where guests are given a key to their very own wine cupboard. The menu is truly Executive Chef (and partner) Enzo Carbone’s baby. Focusing on meat and seafood, he features artisanal and organic prime cuts, grills and "jet-fresh" raw seafood at the crudo bar. Naturally, other big players on the menu include authentic Neapolitan pizzas and gourmet pastas. The large menu may seem somewhat daunting to first time visitors, but it is worth taking a moment to familiarize yourself with the ingredients in order to understand the quality and craftsmanship of the meal you are about to tuck into. We went for the Degustation Menu Of Capo Signature Dishes (RMB 588 per person). This comprised of Capo raw fish, shellfish and crustaceans (Mediterranean style on ice), jet-fresh burrata and home cured duck prosciutto with 25-years aged balsamic vinegar fom Modena, Italian fennel pork sausage, ricotta and scamorza filled home hand-crafted organic egg tortelli with fresh Italian “pacchetelle di pomodoro” stracciatella and basil, Jack’s Creek organic farm Angus (200 days grain fed strip loin – marble score 3+) and tortino di cioccolato (hot venchi chocolate soufflé with coconut ice-cream). We felt that this stomachstretching menu was great value for money due to the quality of ingredients, attention to detail and decent portion sizes. The crudo course featured creamy and fresh tuna, prawns and Hokkaido sea scallops seasoned with Sicilian smoked sea salt and homemade in the antipasti due to its fresh taste and velvety texture, perfectly balanced by the peppery salad and salty prosciutto. The primi, composed of the homemade tortelli, was rich in flavour and slightly al dente at first bite, leaving us with an interesting texture when offset by the smooth pork. Our secondo, the strip loin, was just a small demonstration of the meat quality available at Capo, and our steak, imported from Australia, was certified for zero growth hormone, chemicals and antibiotics. Finally, the cherry on top of a first-class meal, was the chocolate soufflé with a textbook melt in the middle centre. Perfection. Capo means “the chef ” in Italian and chef Carbone’s extensive and pioneering signature dishes and extended menu make him the chef of choice for us - enough to make us go back for a lot more than just second helpings.