New and Noted: Chin-Agiku

First impressions of Chin-Agiku are confusing at best. The sign outside of the Asian restaurant explains that it offers “affordable luxury”, and that is definitely the contradictory case. We tucked into an eightcourse menu that was anything but economical at RMB 1,007 for two people without alcohol, but our sticker shock was alleviated when we saw the lunch menu, featuring sets starting at RMB 98, and the cheaper a la carte menus. The food? A disconcerting Japanese-Thai fusion, explained the eager waiting staff. Luckily, this was dispelled quickly as the flavours are mostly clean, simple ones from The Land Of The Rising Sun, with the occasional Southeast Asian vibe popping up in completely separate dishes. Despite the initial bewilderment, the dining experience left us with nothing but good tastes in our mouth, courtesy of hand-selected imported ingredients showcased by meticulously-executed cooking techniques, like the cucumber salad (RMB 48), our humble starter. Featuring a silky version of julienned vegetable, the dish was elevated by a sprinkling of popping tobiko. The parade of quality components continued throughout the meal. The creamiest chawanmushi (RMB 48) we’ve ever had the pleasure of dipping a spoon into, featured steamed egg topped with a touch of black truffle. Their signature giant scallop (RMB 168) arrived at the table with fanfare, soaking in its own shell with lightsoy sauce and dashi broth over a sculpted charcoal grill. Thinly-sliced black pork sukiyaki (RMB 198) was sweet and tender; an excellent take on the classic beef dish, served with beautiful grains of pearlescent Japanese rice (RMB 15). The same pork showed up in the soup course (RMB 68), with organic ribs indulgently releasing their porky essence into a pepper and garlic broth tempered by sour plum sauce. Although the interjection of Thai dishes felt like a blip in the multi-course meal’s continuity, they were all independently excellent. Instead of the pork bone soup, my dining companion opted for the tom yum goong (RMB 68) that came smacking of shrimp heads and chillies. A whole salt-encrusted tilapia (RMB 298), stuffed with tropical lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves and grilled over charcoal, was so delicious that the entire kilogram was picked clean; a mere pile of bones once we were done with it. Tucked behind an escalator on the ground floor of the IFC mall, Chin-Agiku has made the most of its commercial surroundings, opening up its high-ceilinged dining room onto a patio that sits in the shadow of Lujiazui’s three skyscrapers. The low-lit interior feels like they’re gunning for the local crowd: an over-the-top Swarovski chandelier dominates the dining room, and the blurred paintings that make up most of the wall are from Italy, of course, but offer little in the way of ambience. While the dinner sets seem like a big ask – both in terms of value and fusion – we would come back for the slimmed down meal courtesy of the lunch or a la carte menu any day of the week. And since they’re planning to open a penthouse spot in IAPM mall next year, that seems increasingly likely.

What: Imported eats dressed up in Thai & Japanese flavours

Where: LG1-83, Shanghai IFC Mall, 8 Shiji Dadao. Tel: 3381 7878

Why: For quality ingredients that are given a chance to shine