Six months ago Bangkok found itself playing host to Thailand’s most serious urban conflict in over 30 years. Each night, people from around the world tuned in to hear about an escalating protest in a country not known for its violence. The country is so dependent on foreign tourism and its public image that Thailand’s government decided to swiftly put an end to the month-long standoff. Like ripping off a band-aid covering a not-yet healed wound, Thailand’s recent history of political struggle suggests we haven’t seen the last of the whole red shirt/yellow shirt conflict. But Bangkok, the country’s ever-resilient capital, has maintained her composure throughout and has emerged smiling politely as always.

Bangkok’s ‘States’ of Emergency

While yes, the initial days of Bangkok’s ‘State of Emergency’ were rather heady and intense; the climate quickly cooled in the capital while the state of emergency has remained in place. Workers can be seen carelessly chatting on the skytrain and vendors fry up late-day snacks in the financial district as digital billboards advertise public warnings that feel a million miles away. Foreign embassies have a habit of issuing daunting travel advisories when a state of emergency is called pretty much anywhere in the world and the fact that Thailand seems intent on keeping its state of emergency alive sparks doubts and conflicting expectations. Rest assured however, that business is back on in Bangkok.

Rhythm of Life

Thais take their food seriously, and nowhere is that better reflected than in Bangkok, a city home to each and every example of Thailand’s culinary landscape. Most food worth eating in Bangkok isn’t expensive, and if you find yourself paying more than 30 dollars for a meal for two, you should be asking yourself why. It was, in fact, the Chinese who introduced street-side eating to Bangkok, and Yaowarat Road is where you’ll still find old classic stir-frys paired alongside bowls of pork-pepper soup and barbecued seafood.

If you’re in Bhanglamphu district for lunch, don’t think twice about popping into the Nang Loeng market for some Thai curry and rice. Austin Bush (austinbushphotography.com), a local food-writer and photographer, reckons Nang Loeng market (Th. Nakhorn Sawan) is home to Bangkok’s best green curry.

If the local definition of spice and hygiene is too much to handle, don’t leave without taking a few sweets for later. Thais and Bangkokians in particular are mad about sweets and eat them with fervour at just about any special occasion. The cakes at Nang Loeng are sweet, yes, but display savoury elements as well, a palm sugar and coconut steamed cake topped with fried shallots, the most prominent example of this phenomena.