This 1 October, non-meat eaters around the world will celebrate World Vegetarian Day: the annual kick-off of Vegetarian Awareness Month. Throughout the month, the virtues of a plant-based diet, and the benefits it bestows on both man and beast, are extolled by veggie groups in a flurry of events encouraging people to go meat-free.

Back in June, TALK reviewed a selection of some of the finest vegetarian restaurants in Shanghai, proving that delicious, innovative vegetarian cuisine can be found, if you look hard enough. In fact, China has a long standing tradition of vegetarianism dating back thousands of years, thanks, in part, to the country's enduring Buddhist population. Some of China's most revered historical figures are said to have been veggie.

And yet, 21st century China is decidedly carnivorous. Adopting and maintaining a 'free-from' lifestyle here has become notoriously difficult. Put simply, the Chinese like their meat. Pork, ubiquitous in homes and restaurants across the land, is the nation's favourite variety of flesh.

In 2007 alone, nearly 700 million pigs were raised in China and since 1980 the country's per capita meat consumption has quadrupled. It now stands at a remarkable 119 pounds of meat, per person, per year and is expected to increase over the next few decades.

Whilst the health implications of a meaty diet are well documented (heart disease, high cholesterol), the environmental impact of the intensive farming which has inevitably followed the rising demand is often overlooked. A study last year by California-based agency Food First found that 30 per cent of the Earth's entire land surface is used for meat and dairy production. Eighteen per cent of all greenhouse gas emissions come from livestock, and China is now the world's top emitter of greenhouse gases, having recently taken the crown from the United States.

But there are signs that vegetarianism is blossoming in parts of China in a movement which, if nurtured correctly, could single-handedly reverse some of the damaging effects of the country's eating habits. Last year, the first ever China Xiamen International Vegetarian Food Fair was held in Xiamen, Fujian Province. The brainchild of a local Buddhist businessman, the fair brings together exhibitors from around the world – nearly 80 in 2009 – all displaying a myriad of tasty vegetarian treats, with the aim of developing competition in the industry. The event also hosts the annual International Vegetarian Forum, during which a series of lectures are given by a panel of international guest speakers. Last year's theme, ‘Feeling the Vegetarian World, Sharing the Healthy Life’, attracted speakers from the UK, Singapore, Taiwan, Indonesia and Xiamen itself.

Lin Jing is Project Manager of the IVFF. Although not strictly vegetarian, Lin eats veggie once or twice a week. She believes this is the gentlest way to introduce meat eaters to the concept of a vegetarian diet. “I think it is easier for many people to do that, to practice eating less meat” she says. According to Lin, interest in vegetarianism is growing in China, aided by the growing number of vegetarian restaurants. But, she believes, it is still difficult for people to commit to an existence totally devoid of meat. “In China, there are more vegetarian restaurants, especially in Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Xiamen. But not as many as in Taiwan” she points out. “There is a fashion element to it, but it is hard to persuade people to be a totally vegetarian. People are interested in trying.”

And despite the country's seemingly insatiable appetite for meat, Lin says it is becoming increasingly easy to lead a vegetarian lifestyle in China. “Since there are more vegetarian restaurants, many vegetarians are feeling better. People show respect to them,” she says. “My boss is a businessman and has dinner with clients. People won't force him to eat meat when they know he is vegetarian. Instead they order more vegetarian food for him.”

Following the success of last year's event, the second annual IVFF is being held in Xiamen in November. The international forum will also return to the event. Topics discussed this year include vegetarian food therapy, restaurant marketing, and the development potential of organic vegetarian food. According to Lin, the forum is the most important activity at the event. “Healthy, environmental protection and development is the mission of the forum, and the event will help develop the vegetarian industry”, she says. “A lot of people have been influenced by the fair. We want many people to know that there are many benefits, if we become vegetarians.”

5 – 8 November, China Xiamen International Vegetarian Food Fair. Web: www.vffair.com