New And Noted: O' Yakitori & O' Cocktail

What: Grilled Japanese skewers and crazy cocktails

Where: 167 Yanping Lu, near Wuding Lu. Tel: 6236 2619

Why: You’re already a fan of Sushi O’s affordable offerings

From raw to grilled to poured, the guys behind Sushi’O are diversifying their options at their new stronghold in Jing’an. In addition to their cheap sushi spot, they’ve added a twostorey izakaya, serving Japanese bbq and funky mixed drinks.

The scene is set by association – expect the same spot-lit wooden tables, industrial facades and big windows as Sushi’O. Even the plates and tableware match – if it ain’t broke, eh? From the look of the menu, they’ve also brought in their business plan: a few Japanese classics sprinkled with Western twists, all for a low low price that will keep any quibbles to a minimum.

And there are a few quibbles. For starters, the place smells impeccable. I don’tknow about you, but when I go out for yakitori, I want smoke. The problem is that they’re not using charcoal – opting instead for an oversized toaster oven with a wire conveyor belt that rotates the raw ingredients. There’s no finesse (or skilled labour) necessary, which probably accounts for how they can keep the prices so easy on your wallet. Several miscues can be attribute to the automated system, like the crunchy garlic cloves (RMB 5) that needed about two more minutes on the grill to soften, both in flavour and texture. Five blistered quail eggs (RMB 7) were just plain bland, the promised salt sprinkle not in evidence. Better to stick to the chicken dishes, all of which made our list of favourites of the night.

Teriyaki-glazed chicken filet (RMB 18) was tender and delicious, while the skewer of chicken & leek (RMB 12) earthy and smoky. Our go-to yakitori order of crispy chicken skin (RMB 8) did not disappoint with its crunchy, salty flavours. A glistening chicken filet served on the side of the hot soba noodles (RMB 45) stole the show from heavy-handed soy sauce broth. Off the poultry beat, the bacon roll (RMB 18), wrapped around silky strands of Enoki mushrooms, was also excellent.

In addition to skewers, the other menu specialty is grilled seafood, but they might look into a better supplier here. The ensconced scallop (RMB 18) swimming in dashi broth tasted less than fresh. Misomarinated black cod (RMB 58), at the higher end of the menu, was similarly stale. Despite their competent sushi rolls at their sister restaurant, seafood is not a high point at O’Yakitori.

Cocktails, on the other hand, reach new heights here, with the help of bartenderabout-own Yao Lu. Kinder cider (RMB 65), a cold take on a holiday tipple with gin and lemon warmed up by ginger syrup and apple cider, is a winter winner. The citrus-scented Yes Khaleesi (RMB 60) scores points for its Game of Thrones reference and muddled peach and lavender profile. Avoid the cloyingly sweet beet fizz (RMB 55), which we ordered out of sheer curiosity when we saw it included Yakult and grapefruit bitters. Consider the cat killed. Just around the corner from Jing’an’s new wine bar corridor, we can’t imagine O’Yakitori failing as a spot for a pre-binge meal. And if they get their act together on the seafood, they’ll enjoy even more acclaim.