New And Noted: Morton's Steak And Seafood Grille

What: The first and only Morton’s Steak And Seafood Grille in the world

Where: IAPM, 4/F, 999 Huaihai Zhong Lu, near Shanxi Nan Lu. Tel: 6067 7888

Why: Tender, juicy red meat, fresh oysters and extravagant caviar alongside infamous MORtinis, need we say more…?

As the second Morton’s in Shanghai, the new restaurant has had a bit of a facelift for its jaunt across the Huangpu. Since being acquired by Landry’s Inc., Morton’s has experienced some big changes compared to its previously conservative steakhouse roots. The latest change is in the form of additional seafood offerings. Luckily for us, Shanghai is the first to experience this crossbreed between Landry's Seafood House and Morton’s, thus creating the new Morton’s Steak And Seafood Grille concept. 

Whereas Morton’s Pudong venue embodies the feel of an East Coast gentlemen’s club with its stained wood panelling, dark red leather and plush seating, the new venue feels like a trendier, younger model. The new restaurant is bright, sleek and shiny, if slightly soulless, with a focus on pale, pastel colours and square edges. The blue and green hues are also said to reflect an ocean theme and is Puxi’s manifestation of West Coast America to match Pudong’s East Coast. However, don't be fooled by this younger, hipper looking Reincarnation, prices still come in at about RMB 500 a plate. 

Floor-to-ceiling windows wrap themselves around the entire length of the restaurant and look out over the alfresco terrace and Huaihai Lu beyond that. Inside, an eight-meter-long fresh seafood bar, showcasing daily imported seafood, takes centre stage and replaces the bottle display of the Pudong version.

The restaurant still offers the classic Morton’s fare, such as the finest grain-fed wet aged beef, but there is also an extensive premium seafood selection, including nine varieties of cold-water oysters from the United States, France, Australia and New Zealand.

Greek chef, and Shanghai veteran, Panagiotis Kalamidas, has been given almost free reign in the kitchen, and created a somewhat fusion menu, taking into account his Asian surroundings, Mediterranean upbringing and the expectations of regular Morton’s customers. After a long process of heavy vetting, and dish approval by the corporate bigwigs, he has produced a pretty magnificent, if slightly generous on the seafood, menu. We sat down to a groaning table filled with a seafood martini featuring spicy kimchee slaw (RMB 298), a plate of plump, fresh oysters served on a bed of ice alongside regular and Asian inspired sauces (RMB 350 for a dozen) and locally sourced kaluga caviar with chopped egg, sour cream, red onion and blini (RMB 495). After moving on to entrees, we were delighted by the substantial Chicago style bone-in ribeye, 650g (RMB 768), which was cooked to perfection and big enough to share around the whole table. The lobster pasta and sauce Americaine with fresh herbs (RMB 568) was beautifully buttery, whilst the Mediterranean style “fin & shell” fish stew with pernod and spicy garlic rouille (RMB 595) naturally played to chef Kalamidas’ strengths and left us coming back for more. The side dishes harked back to Morton’s true roots and we were particularly impressed with the extra rich, creamed spinach (RMB 90) and parmesan truffle fries (RMB 100) which were perfectly saturated by the decadent truffle seasoning. Finally, for dessert, we were tempted by the tangy and creamy key lime pie (RMB 95) and peanut butter pie with oreo cookie crumb crust (RMB 90),which to us epitomised the taste of America in one bite!

As fans of the legendary Morton’s happy hour, we were relieved to hear that the Puxi restaurant was also rolling out their own MORtini Happy Hours from Monday to Friday (excluding public holidays), 5pm to 7pm with complimentary filet mignon sandwiches, along with an extended Happy Hour from 9pm to 11pm (unfortunately, without the complimentary sandwiches). Although customers no longer need to schlep all the way to Luijiazui for a MORtini, the drinks menu is slightly different (where is the chocolate martini?) and we are not convinced that the view of a quieter section of Huaihai Lu can compete with the stunning vista of the Pearl Tower.

The food, however, does offer something different to the traditional Morton’s fare and the new fusion menu along with seafood additions is definitely worth a try. The restaurant is also open until midnight, therefore offering late night, trustworthy, western dining in a city where dinners past 10pm are hard to come by.