China's Wild Southwest
Much like protagonist, Hugh Conway, in James Hilton’s 1933 novel, Lost Horizon, seeking paradise and enlightenment in a land of mystery and beauty, any traveller to China’s mystical Southwest “Shangri-La” will quickly appreciate its magic. Escape the beaten track in favour of the allures of Yunnan’s more remote areas on the Songtsam Circuit, a journey among a collection of unique boutique retreats throughout Yunnan offering authentic cultural tourism with a luxurious edge and an environmental conscience. In the foothills of the Himalayas, traverse through snow capped mountains, verdant plains and high-altitude villages that appear virtually forgotten, and are all the more enchanting for it. If you’re looking for a relaxing way to explore the lesser-discovered charms, Yunnan’s superb landscape with a healthy dose of Tibetan culture, you’ve found it.
My journey began at Songtsam’s flagship lodge in Shangri-La, located just minutes away from the gold roofs of Songzanlin Monastery, Yunnan’s largest Tibetan monastery. The city, formerly known as Zhongdian, took inspiration from Hilton’s novel and was renamed in 2001 to boost tourism. The association certainly lends an air of mystery and mysticism to a stay here, particularly at this retreat overlooking the Lugu Lake valley in a farming village untouched by mass tourism. Distinctive and atmospheric, the Songtsam Shangri-La, like most of the Songtsam collection, is a traditional Tibetan-style dwelling replete with luxury comforts incorporating fireplaces, libraries and exquisite Tibetan décor. Ornate tapestries and paintings adorn the walls, while traditional rugs and antique furniture create an ambiance of being in a home away from home. After a hearty breakfast including Tibetan specialties, spend the morning at Songzanlin Monastery cultivating your mystical sense of self alongside monks reciting meditative Buddhist chants. At 3,200 meters above sea level, you can certainly sense the altitude, no more so than when scaling the steps leading up to the prayer halls. Balance out that spiritual growth with some shopping in Shangri-La’s old town, strolling through alleys full of souvenir stores that can satisfy any bargain hunter’s appetite.
My next stop was Meili, a 5-hour spectacularly scenic drive away, just the first of several stunning road journeys during my time in Yunnan. We dropped by the Songtsam Benzilan for a quick lunch before delving into the truly remote portions of the drive, which included NixiVillage; a hamlet deep in the Shangri-La valley renowned for its production of black pottery. Next was Dongzhulin Monastery, located in a mountain village off a curve in the highway; an unexpected gem amidst the twists and turns of the mountainside roads. Finally, we passed the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Diqing; a region in which the Yangtze, Mekong and Salween Rivers are approximately parallel. The Tibetan influence here is palpable, with steep gorges and lush greenery that anchor the stunning environment. As we neared our destination, the snow capped mountains of the Baima Snow Mountain Pass came into view. The Songtsam Meili is impeccably situated on a bluff overlooking the sacred and stunning peak of Kawagebo. Upon arrival, I was greeted warmly by several of the staff and a steaming cup of ginger tea, rather fitting for the ‘Chalet Chic’ character of this lodge. Swapping my boots for a pair of Tibetan style slippers, I felt like I was entering the holiday cabin of a good (and extremely wealthy) friend. At 3,600 meters above sea level, the Songtsam Meili has a surreal proximity to the stars. With Kawagebo just ahead, this location is nothing short of extraordinary. I requested a course of rose oil from the front desk, and with the delicate fragrance filling the room, I knew I was in for complete serenity. If you’re fortunate to get a clear morning, you’ll catch a view of the snow peaks stained gold at sunrise.
Inhabited by just five families, the Gujiunong village beside the lodge is one of the few places where traditional Tibetan farming and herding are still part of daily life. Its inhabitants also practice polyandry and are fascinating to observe in person. Visit one of these households during an exploration of the area and learn more about their livelihoods. They might even offer you some rich Tibetan butter tea and Tsampa. Other activities in Meili, taking advantage of the crisp mountain air, include the Miyong Glacier hike, if you’re unafraid of heights, or shorter treks with alternative views of the snow capped peaks, the tallest summit of which is at 6,740 meters.
After a lunch of organic local specialties, we start the drive to Cizhong, the newest lodge in the Songtsam portfolio, which opened in October. From the lodge, there are stunning views of the village straddling the Mekong River Valley, surrounded by vine-covered slopes and picturesque rice fields. Perhaps the most culturally unexpected of these villages, Cizhong, was formerly a French settlement, which explains the town’s Catholic Church (built in 1906), and the large number of families that grow their own grapes for traditional French-style wine making. I enjoyed several luxurious glasses of the local wine over my meals at the Songtsam Cizhong, and also as a lavish substitute for afternoon tea in the dining room by the fire.
My next stop was Tacheng, town of stunning rice terraces, renowned local delicacies and home to the endangered Yunnan Golden Monkeys. Enjoy delectable meals highlighting fresh fruits and vegetables, local ham and trout, or Tacheng’s very own wild honey. Honey connoisseurs can even visit beekeepers in the local village. These wholesome meals, seasoned and spiced to your tastes, were undeniably a highpoint of my stay, with locally sourced ingredients providing that element of cuisine to elevate the Yunnan adventure. Head out bright and early for the Golden Monkey Forest, where after a short hike you can observe the monkeys in their daily interactions. Visit a Naxi or Tibetan Bazhu village in the afternoon; the latter outing can be supplemented with a several hour hike. If you’re looking instead for some quality downtime, relax in your spacious room, complete with daybed and balcony seating. The simple luxuries of the Songtsam experience truly offer an unparalleled approach to cultural and experiential travel in China’s wild Southwest.
Though being here feels worlds away from the hustle and bustle of China’s larger cities, the region is not entirely excluded from winds of change. The scenic drives between the Songtsam lodges are occasionally interrupted by dust and noise of construction, and it is a stark contrast between ‘the simple life’ in Yunnan’s remote wilderness and present-day forces of transformation. Songtsam’s attention to Buddhist notions of hospitality and community is what makes this journey so exquisite. Many members of the staff come from local villages, and guests can even visit these ‘Songtsam families’ for tea and a deeper understanding of what life is like in 21st century Yunnan. It’s hard to leave without a desire for the treasures here to remain undiscovered and untouched. Still, in the timeless land of yaks and prayer flags, full of stupas and Buddhist iconography, where monasteries are interspersed through historic trade routes and minority groups dress in vibrant traditional wardrobes, ‘modern China’ feels distant indeed.
Web: www.songtsam.com