Hanoi: A City on the Verge
Exploring North Vietnam
Halong Bay
With a name like ‘Descending Dragon Bay’, Halong Bay naturally conjures thoughts of grandeur. Add to that its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the world’s seven natural wonders, and the expectations for the 1,500 square metre body of water are beyond high. The four hour drive from Hanoi – a bumpy journey over a road generously billed as a highway – leads you to the formation of limestone islets where you’ll inevitably board a ‘junk’ for a day of cruising between islands and exploring the breathtaking underground caves and grottoes.
While most locals live on dry land, there are several floating villages on the bay, so make sure whichever junk you do board has at least one of them on the itinerary. The most famous, Cua Van, has a population that tops out at about 700 people, most of whom make their living through fishing. Famous for their vocal talents, you’ll be lucky if you hear them singing ho bien, or a traditional song sung out to boats, as you cruise through the maze of bobbing homes.
Where to Stay:
While you can settle for any sea-faring vessel to ferry you between tourist sites, Emeraude Cruises sets the standard for luxury on the bay. Designed as a diesel replica of a steamer that cruised the same waters from 1906 to 1937, the 38 cabin vessel offers a taste of the Old World, but with all the modern amenities to make you feel comfortable. Passengers can enjoy made-to-order crepes while lounging on the turn of the century sun decks, then duck downstairs to the dining room for a Vietnamese spring roll making class. If you stay the night, the ship drops anchor outside Hang Trong, or Drum Cave. Named for the sound the wind makes as it echoes through the stalactites and stalagmites, you’ll be lulled to sleep by the natural symphony and the boat’s gentle rocking.
Sapa
Located in northern hill country, Sapa is just a stone’s throw from the Chinese border, so if you’re crossing overland through Kunming or Nanning, the village is a good starting point for your Vietnam trip. Whether you’re coming from China or Hanoi, your first stop is Lao Cai’s bustling train station before heading up the winding roads of the Tonkinese Alps where the elevation provides a welcome respite from Vietnam’s tropical temperatures.
With emerald rice terraces as far as the eye can see, the possibilities for hiking are endless. Rent a scooter and buzz your way up the mountain to find random villages and hiking trails, or just set off on foot to the ethnic village of Cat Cat. You’ll wander with pigs and the occasional water buffalo through cottage industries set up alongside a wooden path. Once you cross the falls, things can get a bit muddy and there are a few detours where you can wander off the beaten path. Make sure you wear shoes with good soles or hiking boots – slipping is part of the experience here.
In addition to the lush hillsides that make Sapa so photogenic, the locals here play a big part in the village’s draw. Almost 85 per cent of the population is made up of ethnic minorities like the Hmong, Dao and Kinh tribes, notably dressed in their cultural garb. With just over 3,000 people who call it home, Sapa’s only real industry is tourism, and the locals sell their trinkets, like silver bracelets and embroidered pillowcases, to make a living.
Where to Stay:
The Victoria Sapa Resort & Hotel sits just above the city, overlooking the cloudy vistas from its four star accommodations. Each of the mountain chalet rooms offers a touch of local flavour with hand-crafted scarves and knitted hats welcoming you to the region. Settle in next to the fireplace and sample hill country flavours at Ta Van. The restaurant offers tasting menus that incorporate Vietnamese, Cambodian and French flavours while highlighting some of the local ingredients from the fertile mountainside. And the best part about the Victoria? The luxury starts from the moment you set off from Hanoi aboard the Victoria Express. With two sleeping cabins and one dining cabin, the train brings romance back to the rails.
