Wine Talk: Taste Test

Shanghai’s most committed dipsomaniacs get together to share and compare some of the wines around town. It’s a no-nonsense guide to the good, the great and the bloody ordinary of wine. Which wine will win the day this month?

Attendees:
Mat Ryan – Partner in The Shed
Alan Duffy – Partner in The Shed
Denise Unkel – Loves her bubbly
Eric Jones – New father

De Faveri Prosecco, Italy
A nice refreshing Prosecco to start with (and we’ll probably save a bit to finish with it as well). Denise, being a Prosecco nut, liked it a lot. I thought the bottle stands out quite well, nice and heavy – a little light on the bubbles, but very refreshing. “Not as fizzy as others,” Denise said, backing up my comments. “Cucumber sandwiches on a nice day down by the beach,” said Alan. He then added, “For the price, I’d definitely drink this at home as soon as the Mrs left for work.” Definitely one of those bottles you need in your fridge. Not for a big celebration – you crack it anytime you want.
Price: RMB 176

Antonutti Merlot, Italy
As soon as I poured this, I noticed the huge dark colouring and big legs down the side of the glass. For the price, I must admit I’m pretty happy with it. It’s another of those wines that you have in your cupboard to open anytime you feel like a drink. “Super smooth, although a little short on the finish,” said Alan. Eric thought it was also a bit light, but I think we convinced him that this is the style. It’s one of those wines that goes with your home made spag boll. Maybe a glass goes in the sauce, and while you wait for that to simmer, you drink one or two yourself and then finish it at the table.
Price: RMB 191

Tenuta Montenti Caburnio Toscana, Italy
I’d tasted this before everyone else, as I wanted to get the tasting order correct on these. As soon as I’d tried it, I fell in love with it. Typically Italian on the nose, and on tasting it, no one was disappointed. Denise would love this with a steak. Alan, just out of the kitchen, came back to try this and before he’d even tasted it was in love with it also. “Great nose… huge effin’ gorgeous… I’d drink it all day.” Basically, speechless. Different, but impressively different, seemed to be the final opinion.
Price: RMB 266

Castra Rubra, Bulgaria
I have had some Bulgarian wine, but never for this article and never in this price bracket. Not a massive lingering finish, I must say. It does stop a little short. Denise said it needs food, the recommendation probably being venison. Alan wants to put it with something he’s shot with a bow and arrow, but I’m not sure that would bring a deer down. Maybe a quail! Everyone was a little confused by this, but I think we are all better for having tried such an interesting wine. Definitely needs something gamey to bring out the best in it.
Price: RMB 445

Summary
Looking at the pricing, the Tuscan was the easy winner, although the Bulgarian had its nuances. I think we all agreed that this tasting threw up some surprises and some challenges for us. For me, the Tuscan is a wine that, for the price, was awesome. Denise went back again to the Bulgarian to finish with. I’d have a few bottles of the Prosecco and Merlot in the cupboard at home for everyday drinking, and two or three of the Tuscan’s hidden away for a special occasion. Needless to say, we all finished with a fresh glass of the Prosecco to cleanse the palate.

All wines available from www.force8wines.com

Sherpa’s Wine of the Month: Reserve Guillaury Bourdeaux 2005
Sherpas has been on the lookout for that quintessential good value French Bordeaux, and with this little unassuming label they believe they have found it. Smooth from the start it goes down well with roasted meats and tomato-based sauces. With winter outside, the pleasing ruby purple of the first pour is warmly satisfying and the berries are truly rounded and the palate full.
Price: RMB 92
Web: www.sherpa.com.cn