Suzhou Supplement: 24 Hours in Suzhou
The arrival of the Nanjing-Shanghai high speed railway forever eliminates any excuse for Shanghai's fast paced citizenry not to take a day to enjoy Suzhou. Within one hour you can get from your door to the platform in Suzhou. And if you want to make sure you do it without a hitch, buy your ticket at least a day ahead of time and bring your passport when you do. But enough of that, on to Suzhou!
10.30am
Grab the train from the Shanghai Railway Station to Suzhou.
11.00am
Arrive at the Suzhou Railway Station and grab a cab to your hotel, the Fraser Suites Suzhou. Be patient. There might be a bit of a wait for a cab and some traffic to boot. The Suzhou metro is in the last stages of completion. Later this year, it should open, making Suzhou all the more convenient.
11.30am
Arrive at the Fraser Suites Suzhou, check-in and drop off your bags. Then grab a cab up to Shiquan Jie for a bite at the Bookworm Cafe (Gunxiufang 77, Shiquan Jie, 139 1558 9753). Half-library, half-cafe, this restaurant provides standard Western fare and serves as a friendly local for many literary-minded Anglophones in the city. Over a toasted Parma ham and brie baguette, you're likely to overhear conversations about Nietzsche and world politics mixing in with idle gossip.
1pm
After lunch, take a short walk over to the Master of Nets Garden (Shiwang Yuan), one of Suzhou's quaintest gardens. What it lacks in terms of the grandness of Suzhou's most well-known Humble Administrator's Garden, it more than makes up for in terms of its quiet.
2.30pm
Hop a cab to Tiger Hill (Huqiu), Suzhou's biggest tourist attraction for literally hundreds of years as evidenced by ancient poems carved into rocks throughout the park. In addition to the Yunyan Tower, the site's leaning seven-story pagoda, you'll also find the hike around the surrounding parkland to be pleasant. If you can avoid the tour groups.
5pm
Head over to Pingjiang Lu and do some window shopping and cafe hopping until it's time for dinner. When you're ready to eat, head to Yushi Fandao, you'll know it when you see the restaurant's characters spray painted on a wall and a small shop selling roasted ducks near the entrance. English is minimal here, but don't worry. All you have to do is walk through the display of dishes on offer and point to what you want.
8pm
After dinner, head over to Ligongdi, Suzhou's entertainment district on Jinji Lake. Enjoy a stroll around the lake for a bit, taking in the shimmering rainbow glow of the development's neon lights on the water while making your way to Harry's Bar. The four piece band here has been playing for years to a loyal following. With pitch perfect harmonies and solid musicianship, it's easy to see why.
9am
After a night on the town, get up and grab breakfast at the Fraser Suites before grabbing a cab to the train station. You'll be back in Shanghai before lunchtime.
