Hairy Crab Hunting

With summer behind us, it’s time for Shanghai’s favourite time of the year: hairy crab season. These feisty creatures are best from late September all the way through December, and you can’t just find the dazhaxie like these in other parts of the world. Largely banned in countries like the USA for their invasive nature, the Shanghainese delicacy is favoured by locals for their sweet meat and rich roe – you just have to know where to find the best ones.

Wang Bao He

This Shanghai institution has had plenty of time perfecting its crab recipe. The restaurant opened its doors in 1744 as a liquor shop before making the move into the dining industry, so it makes sense then that hairy crabs go for a cool RMB 320 per jin – you’re not just paying for the food, you’re paying for a legacy of flavour. To make sure you get your fill of every last part of the crab, opt for the Crab Feast option. For RMB 450, the set menu spans the crustacean spectrum with dishes like crab meat and tofu and xiaolongbao stuffed with crab roe. Don’t forget the bottle of Shaoxing wine to accompany your meal. Wang Bao He’s intoxicating roots means it still has some of the most celebrated Chinese liquors in the city.

603 Fuzhou Lu, near Zhejiang Zhong Lu. Tel: 6322 3673. 555 Jiujiang Lu, near Fujian Zhong Lu. Tel: 5396 5000

Cheng Long Hang Xie Wang Fu

At this restaurant, Fu refers to the old Chinese mansion that houses the establishment. Decorated in traditional Chinese style, the wait staff dons ancient Chinese costumes while live Oriental music entertains patrons over the din of cracking crab shells and sucking sounds. Diners select their meal from a terrarium of live fettered crabs, which will run you about RMB 180 each. Crab cracking novices can take advantage of the wait staff’s nimble fingers, as they extract all the sweet meat from the shell without even breaking a sweat. Don’t forget to order the hairy crab in wine sauce to round out your dinner. Marinated in rice wine, the dish is served raw, but the sweetness of the meat and wine makes for one delicious bite.

216 Jiujiang Lu, near Jiangxi Zhong Lu. Tel: 6321 2010

Ling Long Ge

As one of the famous specialty restaurants serving hairy crabs all year long, Ling Long Ge imports hairy crabs from the Netherlands during China’s off-season, but come autumn, they source their crab domestically and harvest them from celebrated bodies of water like Yangcheng Lake and the Yellow Sea off of Shandong. Steamed crabs  and crabs cooked with salted meat (both RMB 208) are the most popular dishes on the menu, but they also venture into the fusion category with their dandan mian. The typically spicy Sichuan noodles receive a generous portion of crab meat for a dish that brings together the east and the west of China in one bite. Private dining rooms make for a quiet change from the renao halls of most other hairy crab restaurants.

2F, 951 Hongxu Lu, near Yan’an Xi Lu. Tel: 3207 1177. Web: www.ling-long-ge.com

Yi Feng Court at Fairmont Yangcheng Lake

Yangcheng Lake is considered the best breeding ground for hairy crabs, so it’s no surprise that the five-star hotel overlooking the water serves some of the freshest crabs each season. Known for their delicate, succulent meat and bright orange roe, Yangcheng Lake’s crabs are worth the 20 minute high-speed train ride from Shanghai – and that’s even before you take into account the Fairmont’s luxurious settings. The hotel’s Cantonese restaurant Yi Feng Court serves the crabs (RMB 168 for females, RMB 138 for males) with other freshwater delights and vegetables from their organic farm. It’s destination dining at its finest, made even sweeter by their Hairy Crab package. Until 31 December, RMB 1568 per day (+15%) for a minimum of two nights will get you a hairy crab dinner for two, as well as daily breakfast and pick-up from the train station.

3668 Ma’anshan Xi Lu, Kunshan, Tel: (0512) 5780 0888 Web: www.fairmont.com/yangchenglake

Pairing Hairy Crab with Huangjiu

Foreigners might opt for Champagne or red wine when dining on hairy crab, but locals stick to the Shaoxing style huangjiu. The ‘yellow wine’ has been the traditional accompaniment when eating crabs for centuries, not just for its ability to coax out the delicate flavours of the dish, but also for its Traditional Chinese Medicine properties. TCM emphasises a balance of yin (cold energy) and yang (hot energy). Hairy crabs are considered a yin food and eating too much of the delicacies can upset your qi, resulting in anemia or lethargy. Thus TCM practitioners pair crab with huangjiu, a yang drink, to warm up the body and balance out the yin. Hairy crab aficionados will also recommend dipping the meat into a sauce of ginger, sugar and vinegar, which is also known for its yang properties. 

WIN! The Fairmont Yangcheng Lake is giving away one night stay, including breakfast, at their property in Kunshan to one lucky Talk reader. Email [email protected] explaining how to tell the difference between a male and female hairy crab for your chance to win.