Nanjing: Far (Enough) From The Maddening Crowds

Heading to some of Nanjing’s tourist sites can mean stepping into heaving throngs of tourists. However, getting away from the crowd is easier than you might think, and this one-time capital of China (its name literally meaning ‘South Capital’), a short two-hour train journey from Shanghai, is steeped in history and interesting sights.

Where to go for a day of history and culture

Presidential Palace and Suzhou Square

The Presidential Palace in Nanjing (RMB 40, open daily 7.30am – 6pm), once the seat of the Chinese government under Sun Yat-Sen, now houses the Nanjing Museum of Chinese Modern History. It’s also a well preserved example of early Chinese modernism, featuring sharp art deco lines interwoven with Chinese flourishes. It’s a sight to behold, that is, if you can manage to catch a glimpse of anything in the endless waves of tourists that cram its corridors. People flock to this heritage site for a reason.

For a quainter reminder of Nanjing’s former term as capital, head over to Suzhou Square. Many of its government officials built their homes here, modelling them after those in Shanghai. The result is that the tree lined streets can prove eerily reminiscent to the former French Concession. However, unlike its larger Shanghai counterpart, this area has remained entirely residential. An afternoon stroll here proves intensely peaceful, something Shanghai’s own former French Concession cafes are making less and less frequent.

Presidential Palace of Nanjing. 292 Changjiang Dong Lu, Baixia District. Tel: (25) 8457 8718

Suzhou Square. Suzhou Lu, near Shanxi Lu

Where to stay

The Westin Nanjing

One of the best choices in the city for being right in the thick of it, but far enough from the crowds is The Westin Nanjing. Located in the south tower of the 5.17 million square foot mixed use development the impressive Nanjing International Centre, the hotel’s rooms offer spectacular views of nearby Xuanwu Lake and the surrounding skyline.

Inside, the rooms radiate with calm, soothing tones and five-star comfort in line with the hotel’s goal “to make you feel better than when you arrived.” The same feeling continues into the hotel’s indoor pool and fitness centre, both with views of the nearby lake. But perhaps the biggest treat of all is enjoying breakfast in the Seasonal Tastes all-day-dining restaurant as the sun comes up over the water below you.

If all this looking out over Xuanwu Lake has got you wanting to take a stroll, be sure to do it at night. That way you’ll not only beat the crowds, but the heat as well. Circumnavigating one of the lake’s many islands, you’ll see the skyline and the glint of kites traipsing across the night sky. For the full experience, rent a four-seater electric motorboat and take to the water (7.30am – 9pm, RMB 40/hour, RMB 100 deposit).

The Westin Nanjing. 201 Zhongyang Lu, near Majia Jie. Tel: (25) 8556 8888

Where to go to really beat the crowds

Sofitel Zhongshan Golf Resort Nanjing

If you’re looking to break with the city entirely, Nanjing’s Purple Mountain in Xuanwu District offers scenic beauty on the outskirts of Nanjing. And while hiking up the mountain isn’t without its more scenic and quieter spots, you can be sure that at Sun Yat-Sen’s Mausoleum, the Linggu Pagoda and the Purple Mountain Observatory tour groups will gather.

Perhaps the best way to enjoy the scenic beauty of Purple Mountain is with a visit to the Sofitel Zhongshan Golf Resort Nanjing. Located directly on the links of the 27-hole golf course of the Zhongshan International Golf Club, the hotel features views of Purple Mountain’s pristine north face. And whether you’re there to take in a few rounds of golf, to enjoy the scenery, or you’ve time to unwind and spend the night, this resort has got you covered.

For food, Zijin Court offers a tasty assortment of Huaiyang and Cantonese cuisine, while Basilico serves up a contemporary twist on Italian. To really indulge, there’s the So Spa with its soothing Turkish hammam style steam room as well as massage and treatments featuring L’Occitane products.

Sofitel Zhongshan Golf Resort Nanjing. 9 Huanling Lu, near the Zhongshan International Golf Club. Tel: (25) 8540 8888

Where to eat

Shiziqiao Food Street

A ten minute walk from The Westin Nanjing, you’ll find the Shiziqiao Food Street, a well known hotspot for enjoying some of Nanjing’s best local cuisine. There isn’t much you can do about avoiding the crowds here, but it’s worth it. Be on the look out for Nanjing Dapaidang (2 Shiziqiao, near Hunan Lu, Tel: (25) 8330 5777) and its succulent dishes such as the jiangmi kourou (glutinous rice with braised pork belly, RMB 36) and shajiangcong youji (marinated chicken with ginger and onion, RMB 36). The restaurant also has another location in the mall attached to the Westin (7F, 2012 Zhongyang Lu, near Majia Jie. Tel: (25) 8358 5777).

For getting a snack on the go, check out A Chun Jia (7 Shiziqiao, near Hunan Lu) with its delicious local xiehuang baoyu shengjianbao delicacies (RMB 14, crab roe and abalone flavoured pan fried dumplings).