Taste Test - October

Shanghai’s most committed dipsomaniacs get together to share and compare some of the wines around town. It’s a no-nonsense guide to the good, the great and the bloody ordinary of wine. Which wine will win the day this month?

Attendees

Mat Ryan – partner in The Shed

Alan Duffy – partner in The Shed

Dean Lapthorne (Deano) – Wine importer

Dean Hewitson – Maker of the wines we are about to taste

Jason Adamson – New father, making the move to Japan

Hewitson LuLu Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Australia

Deano was straight into the bad books with Dean the wine maker after an off-the-cuff comment about LuLu being sensational and he’d “quite happily give her one”. Unbeknownst to Deano, that wine was actually named after Dean’s wife. A few seconds of uneasy silence was broken by Dean stating “mate, she IS a bloody good sort”. Jason declared it “perfect for North Queensland”, meaning beach material on a 32 degree day. Dean commented that it was only 11 per cent alcohol, so it’s made to be light and fruity. I thought it was more the New Zealand style of Sauvignon Blanc than I’ve normally had out of Australia, meaning it does have a bit of grassiness.  Alan had only one word: “Beautiful”. Asked what food we’d pair it with, we agreed seafood or a Thai salad. The two final comments were from both Deans. Deano said, “I’d just demolish bottles of this”, and Dean saying that “it’s a beer drinkers white wine”.

Price: RMB 270

Hewitson Ned & Henry Shiraz 2009. Australia

Before we even had a chance to comment, Dean reminded Deano that this one’s named after his kids. I’ve had this particular wine quite a few times, and it’s always solid. It is big (of course, being an Aussie Shiraz), but it’s well balanced and not too “in your face”. Jason said it’d be great with either Spaghetti Bolognese or Di Shui Dong ribs – two very different choices, but why not? Alan declared it perfect for a ribeye, and Dean told us it’s sold at, and very popular in, a famous Japanese sushi place in London. For big wines, in my opinion, this style is where it is at – big, bold and beautiful to drink with a big plate of meat.

Price: RMB 330

Hewitson Private Cellar Shiraz/Mouvedre 2006, Australia

This was always going to be the winner, and that’s not to bring the other wines down at all. Served in a magnum, it’s only made when Dean thinks he has something exceptional in his barrels. The 2005 version was rated equally with the world famous Penfolds Grange. We were actually a bit sneaky with this, and three days before this official tasting for this article, we had to open it. Dean sampled it again and declared it had opened up perfectly over the days we’d had it opened. We actually stored it in the fridge, so three to four days is no problem. “Dark, mysterious and sexy,” commented Dean. We all agreed that it’s yet another perfect accompaniment to meat, except Alan, who somehow came up with white chocolate and wasabi. Interesting. We asked the question as to whether or not you’d normally decant this wine. Probably not required, although it will open up over time.

Price: RMB 2,000

Summary

Obviously the Private Cellar is the standout, but I think we all agreed the Sauvignon Blanc, being as fresh as it was, is just a great product. It’s an everyday sort of wine. Have a couple in the fridge for that BBQ or picnic, and have a bottle of the Private Cellar hidden away for that special anniversary (if you can get your hands on it).

All wines are available from www.pudaowines.com