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travel talk:
Spring Into Harbin

As the snow and ice start their slow disintegration in China’s far north, the tourism high season evaporates rather quickly. After the peak Chinese New Year holiday, when thousands of domestic and international tourists hit Harbin to experience the annual snow and ice festival, March brings more hospitable weather, but far fewer people competing to see the other gems the city has to offer.

SEE

Siberian Tigers

This is without doubt one of Harbin's most unique experiences. The Siberian Tiger Park occupies a total area of 1,440,000 square metres, making it the world’s biggest natural park for wild Siberian tigers. It’s home to more than 500 pedigree Siberian tigers as well as white tigers, lynx, leopards, lions, Bengali tigers and black pumas.

They say their mission is to replenish Siberian tiger populations and prepare them for the wild – but the reason people visit is marginally more bloodthirsty than altruistic. For the bargain price of RMB 50 for a domestic chicken (or, what we thought was the best value for money, RMB 600 for a sheep) you can watch live animals being thrown to the tigers for them to disembowel and consume.

Even if you’re not the bloodthirsty type, it’s hard to look away as these imposing beasts circle their prey, and each other, before the gruesome finale, which thankfully comes quite quickly for the poor sacrificed animals. It remains to be seen how throwing food to the tigers ‘prepares them for the wild’, but it’s certainly something to see firsthand.

Siberian Tiger Park, 88 Songbei Jie, Harbin. Tel: (451) 8808 0098. Web: www.dongbeihu.net.cn

Church of St Sophia

One of the most photographed sights in Harbin, St Sophia’s (pictured top) is a Russian Orthodox church built in 1907. It provides a visual link between the modern Chinese city of Harbin, and its past as a Russian concession. The entry fee to get inside the church is RMB 20 (more if you have a camera), and there you’ll find a collection of black and white photographs of Harbin at the beginning of the 20th century, but the captions are all in Chinese and it’s just not that great.

You’re better off hanging around the square next door people watching. Kids play with spinning tops, vendors try to pawn off Russian-styled souvenirs and wave after wave of parka-clad tourists gather to capture a timeless memory of themselves standing in front of the church. If you are a fan of taking pictures of people taking pictures of other people in silly poses – this is utopia.

St Sophia's, Zhaolin Jie, on the corner of Toulong Jie, Harbin

EAT

Lucia 1914 Russia Café

Within walking distance of St Sophia’s, near the northern end of the central pedestrian street of Zhongyang Da Jie, you’ll find the Lucia 1914 Russia Café. The food might not be the greatest thing you've ever tasted – but we’ve been to Russia and can vouch for its authenticity. The building that now houses the eatery was once the home of a life-long Russian Harbinian (or whatever they liked to call themselves). Lucia was born in Harbin and grew old alone after most of the Russian population moved on, but she was so attached to the city that she couldn’t leave.

Lucia’s Restaurant is almost a monument to her life, featuring her photographs, letters, piano and knick knacks on the walls and around the main dining room. It’s just like having dinner at Nanna’s house.

Try the fried piroshki, the Russian hamburger and the hot Moscow mashed potato, then wash it down with a healthy shot (or three) of Russian vodka – there are a variety of options on the menu. Expect to pay RMB 200 for two, including drinks.

57 Xi Toudao Jie. Tel: (451) 8456 3207

SHOP

Zhongyang Da Jie

For a leisurely day of shopping in Harbin, Zhongyang Da Jie is where it’s at. Locals will take pride in telling you the 1,450 metre strip is the longest pedestrian street in China (a fact we were unable to independently verify), but we can tell you with certainty that it’s lined with pleasantly old Russian buildings, interspersed with modern mega malls.

All the usual retail suspects are present and accounted for – including Zara, Nike, Esprit, Puma, Prich (for all those seeking that unisex Chuck Bass-look). The Europe mall was one of the nicest we came across and included a store that specialised in high-end transportation. Just in case you need a place to fill your Harley Davidson motorbikes / Land Rover 4WD / high end mountain biking / yachting needs.

STAY

Shangri-La Harbin

This was the first international five star hotel to hit Harbin and is still rated by online travel recommendations portal, Trip Advisor, as the most popular place in town. Even though it’s celebrating its 11th birthday this year, the 404 room hotel is not showing any signs of age either in the communal areas, or in the elegantly appointed rooms.

You’ll find everything you would expect from a legitimate international hotel, including a well equipped fitness centre, indoor heated swimming pool, helpful business centre and well-trained, English-speaking staff.

Even if you’re not staying at the Shangri-La, it’s certainly worth a visit for the food. The buffet dinner at their Coffee Garden restaurant is extensive, to say the least, with highlights including baked oysters, cooked to order meats, fresh sashimi, shark’s fin soup and New Zealand Natural ice cream for dessert. Priced at RMB 198 per person (including service charge, one glass of red wine and one serving of foie gras).

555 You Yi Lu, Harbin. T: (451) 8485 8888.

Web: www.shangri-la.com/en/property/harbin/shangrila

 

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