CHALET SUISSE

What: A taste of home (if you happen to be Swiss, that is)

Why: Because melted cheese is simplicity and awesomeness

How Much: RMB 150-200 per head including a glass of wine each

Where: 1582 Kangding Lu, near Wanhangdu Lu. Tel: 3353 3887

Recently opened by the great minds behind Napa Wine Bar & Kitchen, Chalet Suisse might come as a surprise to those expecting fine dining with all the bells and whistles.

It’s immediately apparent as you enter that bells and whistles are not the priority here. The walls are plain, untreated pine, and the small, well-lit space is filled with homely, red and white checked tableclothed tables adorned with single tea light candles. The effect is both spare and welcoming, and, according to our Swiss friends, is rather reminiscent of a chalet in the old country.

Although on first inspection, Chalet Suisse seems an entirely different venue to Napa, some aspects of the latter have made the jump to the new enterprise. The focus on good, friendly service is still present, as is an extensive wine list (though not as extensive as Napa’s).

The menu is a nightmare for the lactose intolerant, but a wet dream for those who like to partake in copious amounts of fabulous fromage. Both the raclette (RMB 198, served for the table) with potatoes, charcuterie board and an assortment of pickled veggies, and the range of fondue are dependably delicious.

During the soft opening there are a limited number of les fondues available (priced from RMB 160-175 for the cheese varieties and RMB 238 for the meaty choices), and we have been told there have been some problems acquiring high quality, optimum-fondue-melting-consistency cheeses – but to be honest, we didn’t notice.

It seems ridiculous that an entire meal can be composed of liquefied cheese and chopped up pieces of bread, and it is. Ridiculously delicious, ridiculously indulgent and ridiculously novel.

There are also a few desserts – if your digestive system is up for more of a challenge – including a highly recommended crème brulée (RMB 50).

Chalet Suisse is the perfect venue for a casual dinner with a group of friends. The food is perfect for sharing and the wine is plentiful and well-priced, with bottles of rather nice Swiss white and red house wines for RMB 60 per glass and a variety of options by the bottle for less than RMB 300.

Next page: ARK dining review