Madrid has style. It’s also got stories on every corner, its own body clock (that thinks nothing of sitting down for dinner at 11pm) and more reasons to visit than you could write up in a thousand-page guidebook. The minute you step into the city’s sleek new airport, you know things are going to work out. A 20-minute cab ride and you’re in the central part of the city.

Spain’s royal capital since 1591 (aside from the Franco years), Madrid is a royal treat. It will uplift and entertain even the most jaded travellers. And it’s so cleaned up these days. Wide arterial roads positively glint in the sunlight, and the street and nightlife are fascinating to behold.

There’s both a jet-set and a gypsy feel to this town. Take time to walk around and take it in.

EAT

Snack at any tapas bar – two fine examples are Espana Cani in Plaza del Angel and El Tabernario in Menendez Pelayo. But, of course, Madrid has its fair share of haute cuisine eateries.

La Trainera has an unfussy nautical interior in which to eat fabulously fresh and varied seafood. In season, dig deep and go for the percebes (hideous barnacles of a heavenly ocean taste) or the angulas (elvers or baby eels).

Lagasca 60. Tel: (91) 576 8035

Botin is reputedly the oldest restaurant in the world, dating back to 1725. A little more recently, it was also one of Ernest Hemingway’s favourite haunts. He liked the roast pork with a glass of Rioja – and so did we.

Cuchilleros 17. Tel: (91) 366 4217

Casa Lucio still sees charming octogenarian Lucio strolling among the tables greeting diners. Reservations are a must at this Madrid institution and favourite of the local well-heeled. King Carlos eats here. Its signature dish? Egg on chips. Like no other ‘egg & chips’ you’ll ever have.

Cava Baja 35. Tel: (91) 365 3252