The Culinary Cottage Industry In Shanghai

By Adam McLean, 2014-01
 
Here's the thing - cottages are inherently boring - and where life is slow, food is spectacular.  We've all been clichéd by 'good things are worth waiting for', but it really sinks in with the distinguished pop of a mason jar lid, followed by getting knuckle-deep in a jar of jam or salsa.  All the ingredients were bought with care at the farmers’ market and brought home to prepare with love, and all by hand, because what else is there to do? 
 
Now it has become an industry the world over.  Fuelled by a mix of artisans, hipsters, foodies and old-school farmers, cottage foods have become a force prominent enough that most of the United States have their own state legislation on what can be sold, and how it should be sold. Michigan's Cottage Food Law PA 113 clearly states that fruit pies, including pie crusts made with lard, are legitimate, but selling home- made banana cream, pumpkin and lemon meringue could land you time in the slammer. I suppose anyone who doesn't know that distinction of right from wrong just wasn't raised right.
 
The home cooks of Shanghai play by a different set of rules. Most are far from home, but aren't just trying to escape the monotony of la mian and lamb shanks - these guys are out for business. At our café, we spend a lot of time trying to find food and snacks that are prepared with the same attention to detail as our coffee, and we've been fortunate to work with a number of these tasty ventures. 
 
Amelia's line of jams and chutneys are a great mix of ncient English recipes made with fresh, local ingredients. Kumquat marmalade, home made peanut butter, sweet onion chutney - basically, if it tastes delicious on a load of carbs, then Amelia makes it to perfection. Amelia not only produces preserves for restaurants and hotels, but is also part owner of the Pantry, and the curator of Jiashan Market. From her humble kitchen in 2009, she's paved a clear path that many others hope to travel. 
 
On the opposite side of the belt line, Tuck Shop Pies are serving up New Zealand style meat pies in a few spots around town. These go dangerously well with drinks and friends, and are all hand made by a pair of Kiwis. Next, a new product called Realicious was a surprise for me. While I appreciate what healthy foods try to do; they don't often taste this full on. Elizabeth Liu, from Realicious, created an awesome line of four nut butters that can be used to make a whole menu of dairy-free alternatives. The sunflower seed butter was an instant favourite for me, giving the palatal sensation of a baseball game on toast. They kick up the flavour and health points of smoothies, and the almond butter makes a great addition to desserts. My final cottage industry pick is Jessamyn's. They have put together an impressive range of dried fruits and nuts straight out of your nana's cupboards. The apricots are a perfect quick grab at RMB 10, or the trail mix with M&M's for the more astute snacker.
 
Pickles: For everyone who is in the mood to bring a little cottage vibe home, here's an easy way to make some pickles. Take a trip to IKEA and get a few of those big glass jars with the rubber sealing lids that look like giant Grolsch tops. On the way home pick up vinegar, white sugar, peppercorns, garlic and salt.  In the jar, mix two cups of water, half a cup of vinegar, four shakes of salt, two shakes of sugar, two shakes of pepper and two cloves of garlic. Peel the garlic, cut the cucumbers in half, the long way, pop them into the jar, and leave it in the fridge for two days. Boom! Pickled. You can also add dill, jalapeños, mustard, or if you want to get crazy, hua jiao (those numbing pepper corns).
 
Adam McLean is a partner at Sumerian Specialty Coffee where they specialise in coffee education, training and freshly roasting some of the best beans from all over the world. Their coffee selection, and a range of homemade goods from around Shanghai, can be found in their café at 415 Shanxi Bei Lu, near Beijing Xi Lu. Web: www.sumeriancoffee.com