Share & Compare: Japanese Offerings on Yongjia Lu
When we noticed there were three Japanese restaurants within a 5 minute walk of each other on Yongjia Lu in the former French Concession, curiosity got the better of us. Where does one go to enjoy the best Japanese food in town? Talk has the answer…
Kota’s Kitchen
If you’re celebrating someone’s birthday, or looking to do dinner as a group, then Kota’s Kitchen is perhaps a good choice. However book early: at the weekends, this place packs out, and the decibel levels rising over ‘Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band’ and other Beatles classics reach something of a frantic high as the evenings get into full frenzy.
Yakitori (skewered chicken) is the name of the game here, but there’s a pretty selective range of food on the barbie. And with different daily recommendations to keep the menu fresh, the crowds coming back. Prices average at a reasonable RMB 25 per skewer, but don’t expect to leave shy of RMB 100 here; the vast selection of barbecued meats, broiled fish, lush fresh vegetables and grilled cheeses offer an inventive twist to your typical expectations of Japanese barbecue – with our feeling the grilled camembert (RMB 30) and the avocado skewers (RMB 10) to be particularly worthy of mention. Still, with so much to try, you’ll find yourself wanting to experiment and take a bite out of everything, the more reason why Kota’s caters to the crowds.
The menu offers a selection of ramen dishes that are pretty popular with the locals as well as the RMB 50 hot pot, but it seems that most of the westerners who pack this place out are here for the grill, and for the tall, cheap Asahi beers (RMB 20). A few classic dishes add to the mix, such as their simple but spicy fried chicken (RMB 30), but if you’re expecting to find tempura, or sushi and sashimi, then you’re out of luck here.
Generally, the service is good, but take some lessons from the chefs in fighting to get yourself heard at the busiest hours. Kota’s may be small, but it’s a hive of activity, and more one for the party crowd than those looking to unwind after a busy week.
Kota’s Kitchen. 335 Yongjia Lu, near Xiangyang Lu. Tel: 6481 2005
Shari
After the chaos at Kota’s, the gentle quiet of Shari, set back in an old Tudor mansion against its lovely fairy-lit terrace, offers a calming respite that contributes towards it being our favourites out of the three restaurants we tried.
The offerings on the menu are very different to Kota’s, however you will also find some fantastic cheese dishes here, including the mascarpone cheese tofu (RMB 48), which with its creamy texture and delicate buttery texture, has proven particularly popular and with good reason.
The restaurant, with a selection of fresh fish recipes, is definitely one for sushi and sashimi lovers alike, and with an ample selection of different maki and nigiri rolls to satisfy all your taste buds, you’ll have more than enough to meet your cravings. We tried a selection from the menu including the RMB 68 California rolls, and delighting in the freshness of the seafood, could not pass up on the offer of some sashimi, which served on ice, and with a light and soft texture, had us deceived into thinking it had just come out of the ocean. The vegetable tempura (RMB 58) is also worth a mention, which in its crunchy, breaded base, and the vegetables, much like the seafood, offered a freshness that will have us going back for second helpings.
The service is impeccable and the atmosphere warm and welcoming. Popular with locals and westerners alike, this is a nice place to bring your other half or just a group of friends on a nice spring evening. And when you do, make sure you order the saikanigori, a must-try light and fruity plum wine, which is a new addition to the menu. A glass of this costs RMB 58, but we’d suggest getting a bottle for RMB 698 to share, as well as a set of the rolls, and whiling away an evening out on the terrace. Now that you can.
Shari. 630 Yongjia Lu, near Wulumuqi Lu. Tel: 5466 0320
Fount
Fount, like Shari, offers a soothing retreat from the hustle and bustle - but at a cost. The most expensive of the three restaurants we tried, with a meal for two racking up a bill close to a thousand RMB, this is one you’ll save for special occasions, or where you’ll bring someone you’re looking to impress.
The offerings at Fount much like Shari are a tribute to its fresh poultry selection with a selection of fish and sushi dishes, but there is also a good selection of meat dishes as with Kota’s Kitchen too. Still, in creating a masterpiece in terms of how your food looks, that Fount stands out from the crowd. This could not be better represented than by one of its signature appetisers, a braised pork dish which comes accompanied with radish, carrot and egg yolk (RMB 48), a vibrant splash of colour straight from the artist’s palate, served in a cocktail glass. It tastes pretty good too.
The sea urchin sushi (RMB 60) is another must-try, which in equal strengths of colour and texture, has a sharpness that a kick of wasabi certainly gives the edge to and will leave you hungry for more. As with most of the dishes, the portion is small, but rich in flavour. Accompanied with a serving of the salmon sashimi (RMB 30), you’ll find yourself pretty much satisfied, leaving just enough room for one of Fount’s famous desserts.
The RMB 88 dessert sampler is a firm favourite with its selection of tiny handmade puddings and fresh fruity ice creams, however we also like the berry sorbet (RMB 30) where every juicy bite is a delectable burst of bliss.
The service, as with Shari is good, and you’ll be tempted to stay for a while here, but not too long as you notice the gradually burning hole in your pocket.
Fount. No. 1, Building 5, 570 Yongjia Lu, near Yueyang Lu. Tel: 6073 7786
Winner!
While Kota’s caters more for the young crowd, and Fount formulates excessive expense, we find in favour of Shari, which offers a little something for everyone. Friendly staff, and fantastic affordable food, this is where you’ll find us out on the terrace once we hit the mid 20s.
