Bar Review: Papaya Bar No. 2

What: A bigger  installment from praised Japanese mixologist
Why: Drinks to savour without pretense
How Much: RMB 80 cocktails; RMB 80 glass of wine
Where: 185 Fumin Lu, near Julu Lu. Tel: 5404 2815

Despite its conspicuous location in laowai land off of Fumin Lu, Papaya No. 2, the sequel to Nanjing Xi Lu's Japanese cocktail inspired Papaya Bar opened quietly last month. Your humble nightlife reviewer only found it by accident. Shying away from the hidden entrances de rigeur for Japanese style cocktail bars, Papaya No. 2 has a full marquee and (gasp!) large windows which give passersby a look at the goods straight away. A break with tradition? Maybe. But proprietor Kyo-san is ready to reach out. "I want to make Papaya a place where all styles of cocktail cultures mix – Japanese, Chinese and European," he says.

With mentions in Chinese nightlife magazines and a stint as the cocktail advisor for The Public, Kyo-san has a growing following in Shanghai. A taste of one of his no-nonsense cocktails reveals why. The Fresh Green (RMB 80) combining Hendrick's gin, mint, cucumber, lemon, tonic and a "hint of rose" is an effervescent and tangy libation. And the Health No. 1 (RMB 80) mixes Hendrick's gin, celery, tonic and homemade lemon syrup. Not exactly a trip to the gym, but the lightness of the chopped celery conjures feelings of freshness on the palate.
As for ambiance, quirkiness fills the fifty seat room. Although your bartender is dishing out Mercedes-level drinks, the surroundings feel more like a tricked out Volkswagon. A shiny array of honeycomb-shaped mirrors reflect the seating area of silver and purple yinyang ottomans. In the washroom near the bar, a golden toilet and underlit marble floors sit behind a two way mirror, giving you the ability to spy on everyone whilst on the can. Sitting there, I wonder if this is a little too weird for Papaya's would-be customers, the suits and designer heels at El Cocktel or Constellation 2, but then I start thinking about my next drink.