Restaurant Review: Yikki

By Michael Fung

What: Neighborhood yakitori joint

Where: 98 Yanping Lu, near Xinzha Lu. Tel: 6267 1781

Why: You’re in the area and in the mood for skewers

Mediocre restaurants that merely get the job done have often occupied the sad stretch of Yanping Lu between Xinzha Lu and Wuding Lu. Enter Yikki with its uninspired yakitori fare that leaves customers craving round two at Kota’s Kitchen or Toriyasu.

Customers are presented with a pair of trifold menus with everything you would expect from a yakitori restaurant in Shanghai: skewers, noodles, cold dishes, salads, and, of course, staple foods – all pretty standard and appropriately priced.

Noteworthy was the chicken skin (RMB 12). Grilled to crispy perfection with just enough salt, it easily came out on top as one of our favourite orders of the evening. The list of ramens was deceptively deep, with seven options on the menu, but only two currently available: salt ramen (RMB 37) or chicken soup ramen (RMB 40). We opted for the latter, a heartwarming bowl of shredded chicken and springy yellow noodles shimmering with oil and umami goodness. With that kind of flavour packed into a bowl, we’re excited to sample the other six ramens.

The biggest disappointment of the night was the Yikki salad (RMB 32), which came at the recommendation of our waitress. Chopped iceberg lettuce with pieces of tuna sashimi, onions and bland dressing with untoasted sesame seeds just didn’t do it for us – really not signature dish-worthy.

Booze is an essential part of any yakitori meal, and, while Yikki provides the beer and shochu, the experience is bereft of the typical Japanese-style fun. Efforts at creating a lighter more airy space with sufficient room between the grills and the tables will be baffling to those of us who enjoy leaving with the smell of barbequed skewers in our clothes as a parting gift, but fans of anime will appreciate the Miyazaki soundtrack playing in the background.