Second Helping: Franck

French cuisine has a reputation for pretension, one that’s been cultivated over the years by Michelin stars, the Bocuse d’Or and, well, French people themselves. When it’s done right, the pretension is forgiven, commended even, but sometimes you run across a little French bistro that forgoes the formalities and just serves good food. For the past four years, Franck has been filling that niche in Shanghai, doling out delicious bistro fare that demands respect, but doesn’t ask for it.

We’ve been coming to Franck irregularly – when our paychecks allow it – for years now. It’s a special treat, our own little slice of Paris tucked away down Ferguson Lane. When we heard that Franck’s fourth birthday had come and gone without our celebrating it, we knew it would be remiss of us not go commemorate the occasion, even if it was belatedly.

Stepping into the low-lit dining room, we were greeted warmly by the wait staff. One of the first to adopt the now-common trend of hiring foreign waiters, Franck also has some of the best-trained local service staff in town. If you’re torn between two dishes or in need of a pairing recommendation, they are exceptionally capable.

Short but sweet, the menu is typical French bistro fare, varying with the seasons and the whim of the chef. The poulpe mariné (RMB 120), a meaty plate of poached and marinated octopus, was dressed with pesto, capers and salmon roe. From somewhere within the dish, a little bit of heat snuck up and left in a smoky whisper – was it grilled, marinated peppers? Franck’s lighting left it to our imagination. The tender octopus sliced almost as easily as a pat of butter, and smacked of the ocean. Despite the dish’s many components, none overpowered the natural essence of the tentacles – it was a study in balanced flavours.

Unable to resist Franck’s famous charcuterie platter (RMB 210), we worked our way through a pile of aged and smoked meats so delicately sliced they were almost translucent in the glow of the candles. The cutting board also featured a loaf of terrine de campagne (gussied-up head cheese or brawn) that turned out to be one of the best we’ve ever tasted, a silky smooth foie gras terrine and a dollop of roasted onion chutney.

The mains, a lobster risotto (RMB 280) and pigeon feuilleté (RMB 260), were equally impressive. The rice in the risotto was perfectly al dente and creamy, and subtle tomato bisque drew out the cheesy flavours. The pigeon dish was like a Russian nesting doll, unveiling delicious surprises with each bite. Encased in a delicate puff pastry, the breast came wrapped around a velvety slice of foie gras.

Dessert seemed superfluous at this point, but if you’re going to go, go all out, I say. Made with 95 per cent cocoa, the chocolate mousse (RMB 60) is simply presented, just a scoop in a bowl, but the dessert’s rich, soft flavours speak volumes, almost shouting, “This is what chocolate is meant to taste like!”

We’re happy to report that Franck has aged as beautifully as the bottles of Bordeaux it keeps behind the bar. Bon anniversaire, Franck – to many more dinners of French classics!

376 Wukang Lu, inside Ferguson Lane. Tel: 6437 6465. Web: www.franck.com.cn