In this new column, the city’s oenophiles get together to share and compare wines on sale in Shanghai. It’s a no-nonsense guide to the good, the great and the bloody ordinary of wine. Which wine will come up trumps this month?

Attendees

• Mat Ryan – Partner in Cuvee and founding partner in JustBeer. Has his hand in wine and beer.

• Alan Duffy – Partner in Cuvee, formerly GM of Theme Pub group which includes O’Malley’s, Sasha’s and Zapata’s.

• Seamus Harris – Partner in Cuvee and cocktailian extraordinaire. No ice is cold enough for this guy.

• Luke Haggett – The man responsible for all the Stella Artois taps around town. Yes, blame him.

• Ciaran Duffy – World travelling executive chef. Give him an oven and a drink and he’s happy.

 WINE 1 – Pikes Riesling, Clare Valley (Australia) 2009 (East Meets West Wine)

Ciaran took a fancy to the fish on the label, and discussion turned towards the best way to cook a pike. Boiling was the preferred option, but the consensus was that pike is a culinary underachiever. Having dealt with the fish, it was time for the wine. Pikes (the wine this time) is one of Mat’s favourites, and no one was disappointed. Aussie Rieslings often have a big kerosene aroma, but this one was pretty restrained – just a nice dash of Aladdin's lamp. “A good starting wine, maybe a breakfast wine,” said Alan. Ciaran spotted a bit of Fume Blanc, and from there his thoughts too turned to breakfast. Breakfasts in the Duffy household must be fun. Seamus expected something sweet, which this Riesling ain’t. Chef Ciaran suggested it was a “salad wine, or perhaps one to serve with fish”. Perhaps pike? Luke 'piked' in about how he enjoyed it despite being a beer guy, but still found it a bit sweet. He loved it as a chick drink though, so we’re tipping he’ll stock his fridge with it. Actually, it’s not a terrible idea to have a few bottles of this in your fridge for a hot day – or breakfast in the Duffys’ case.

 WINE 2 – Le Marquis De Beau Rond Grenach-Syrah Rose (France) 2008 (Plus Wines)

A lightweight number from France, this is the new rosé at Cuvee (Lane 528 Kangding Lu, near Xikang Lu. Tel: 6288 1189). Alan thought it went well with the beer we were all washing it down with. Luke agreed. A slightly dusky pink (suggestive of a sunset in the Shanghai smog?), this one is light on the alcohol and needs to be served very cold. Foodwise, this was voted another salad or fish wine – smoked fish this time. Or maybe even a Caesar? Mat reckoned the wine was a bit tart and needed food to bring out its goodness. Seamus saw the wine working in a pint glass, with ice (naturally), a twist, and a dash of soda – dragging it into cider or even spritzer territory. Luke put it with spicy food. “Eat a chili and then knock this down,” he reckoned. Before abruptly changing tack, suggesting “a cheese and fruit board would be f**king awesome with this”. There’s nothing wrong with this wine, and the group tipped it to be one of the best selling rosés of the summer.

 WINE 3 – Hewitson Miss Harry GSM 2007, Barossa Valley (Australia) 2007 (The Wine Republic)

This wine with a big personality comes from Dean Hewitson, a good mate of Mat’s. A regular visitor to Shanghai, Dean is one of Australia’s most innovative winemakers, and has access to some of the oldest vines in the world. The Mouvedre in this gem is from vines over 150 years old. This wine is big, but in a ‘berry’ likeable way. Only 14.5 per cent on the label, but it’s most likely a bit more. “Lingers,” said Ciaran. “Like the smell of your feet,” observed Alan. Seamus saw this working after a BBQ, just to ‘wine’ the evening down. “With a cigar” Ciaran suggested. Luke put it with Belgium chocolate from his employer Vaandergeeten, but graciously admitted the Cuvee chocolate fondue might also work. The final verdict? Great wine for a roo shoot. This wine might be on at Kakadu (8 Jianguo Xi Lu, near Chongqing Nan Lu. Tel: 5468 0118) so try it with that kangaroo dish they serve.

Summary

As we sipped on the remnants of the wine, the red (Hewitson GSM) proved its mettle as a great little settle-in-and-have-a-conversation drop. We all sipped it, swirled it and discussed how we had bloody good jobs in that we can sit around and talk about wine. All in all, a ripper selection of wines. For these muggy days, the Riesling and the Rosé are the picks, but come winter, grab a bottle of the GSM and get in front of a fireplace.