Tianzifang

Change is a constant at Tianzifang, Shanghai’s famed creative arts district, which has recently seen a slew of facelifts, new venues, and even a tourist information centre. To check out the area’s latest happenings, TALK went for a stroll with Andrew Collins, CEO of Mailman China, an alternative media company that’s made Tianzifang’s laneways its home for the past seven years.

Mollica Di Pane

Collins first walks to the outskirts of Tianzifang to point out one of his usual morning stops: Mollica Di Pane. “This is a small but funky Italian bakery, where I usually buy a cornetto (Italian style croissant) for breakfast,” Collins says. The bakery also sells filoncino (baguettes), rosetta (Rome-style buns), taralli pugliesi (southern Italian biscuits), birthday cakes and much more. Mollica Di Pane – and its sister restaurant on the 5th floor, That’s Amore – will be part of the Expo Village. 

1F, 200 Taikang Lu, near Sinan Lu. Tel: 5465 2095

Cotton House

Collins gets his daily caffeine fix at this recently opened coffee bar, and he’s also noticed that the café has become popular among its neighbours. “A lot of locals come into the café for a sandwich and quick bite to eat,” he says. So what does Collins recommend? “I buy a latte (RMB 15) here everyday. I’m big on fresh milk.”

248 Taikang Lu. Tel: 6473 7700

FinlanDesign

There’s also a lot changing on the main Taikang Lu strip, where a large retail shopping centre is being built across from the main art area, complete with a new Line 9 metro stop. “It’s going to bring a lot of traffic to the area. The whole street will change, and you can already see some of that mirrored on the main part of Taikang Lu,” Collins says. FinlanDesign, which opened in January right across from the mall, is one example of that change. The shop’s name says it all, as the niche boutique stocks sleek Finnish design products, such as home décor and lifestyle accessories.

242 Taikang Lu. Tel: 5465 1880

En Grill & Bar

En’s atmosphere feels just like any restaurant in Tokyo. Nestled in Tianzifang’s laneways, the venue’s décor is dark and cosy, matching the look and feel of any bar in Japan. According to Collins, the sushi, grilled steak and eel rice are all top notch.

House No. 20, Lane 248 Taikang Lu. Tel: 5466 0857

Shanghai Code Vintage Glasses

Collins admits he rarely shops in Tianzifang: “A lot of [the shops] are catered towards tourists who want to take a piece of Shanghai home with them,” Collins says. “For me, it’s about the food and people we see around Taikang Lu.” But as he walked out of En, he couldn’t help but take a peek in Shanghai Code Vintage Glasses. The tiny boutique is lined with retro frames and sunglasses from the 1960s to the 1980s, though it doesn’t provide prescription lenses. “This stuff just doesn’t get old,” Collins says, picking up a pair of frames, “no matter if you’re a tourist or a local.” The store’s owner Seven Shi also sells vintage alarms, water flasks, watches and travel bags, which all share a touch of old school Shanghai.

No. 2 Back Door, Lane 274 Taikang Lu. Tel: 6473 6581

Nuzi

One of the first stores on lane 248, Nuzi has been one of Tianzifang’s mainstays since opening in 2006. Nuzi – which translates to ‘button’ and symbolizes the unification of New Zealand and Chinese culture – stocks an eclectic mix of Kiwi handcrafts, home décor and food, including homemade cheese, New Zealand wines and Jaffas candies. It’s also a place where Collins, sort of, gets a taste of home. The Australian says he often buys Vegemite and Juicy Fruit gum from the New Zealand shop.

Shop 30, Lane 248 Taikang Lu, near Sinan Lu. Tel: 5465 3245

Nancy’s Gallery

Gallery owner Nancy Lee sticks to a handful of artists and has “gone on to a couple of winners,” Collins says about his favourite gallery. Nancy’s Gallery focuses on contemporary fine art by foreign and Chinese artists, including Li Yueling, who is well known for his vibrant paintings that use large rectangular brush strokes in his portraits.

Room 110 & 112, Building 5, Lane 210 Taikang Lu. Tel: 6466 8146

Ecogoods

As our tour came to an end, Collins walked to his favourite clothing store, Fashion Life, which it turns out, had been gutted and shut down. “This is so typical of Taikang Lu; so many things close down so quickly,” he says. But that makes room for newcomers like Ecogoods, a store that stocks house wares – such as kitchen utensils, office supplies, gardening tools and décor – made from eco-friendly materials. This is also a great stop for small gifts and craft materials.

No. 11B, Lane 210 Taikang Lu. Tel: 135 6470 0584