There’s no better cure for Shanghai’s bone-chilling cold than a warm, hearty bowl of soup. So it’s a pity that more often than not, restaurants relegate this wonderful dish to the back corner of menus as a side option.

It’s time to give this king of comfort foods the dining spotlight it really deserves. So with winter in full swing, TALK put five of Shanghai’s best soup makers to the test, enlisting the help of three judges to taste and rate our challengers: Shanghai TALK’s very own soup connoisseur Alex Charnaud, Mr & Mrs Bund restaurateur Paul Pairet, and local photographer and amateur foodie Emily Minor.

Vargas Grill: Spicy Grilled Chicken Tomato Soup (RMB 45)

At the heart of this soup is chicken stock combined with ripe Roma tomatoes, white wine, and smoky chipotle peppers and Mexican jalapeno chillies. Charcoal-grilled chicken and vegetables bring a hearty flavour, and its final touches are a fresh dash of lemon juice and cilantro, and shredded tortilla chips for a crunchy garnish.

EM: I was expecting something really spicy, but it was fine for me. I like that it tastes fresh with the lemon and cilantro at first, and then it has a spicy aftertaste. I don’t like that it looks kind of oily.

AC: It seems like a lot of work for a tomato soup. I like the little crunchy bits on top – it’s a cool twist on croutons.

PP: Compared to the other soups, this one has more layers in its taste. I’m not bothered by the oil, but I was expecting something with a stronger smoky, grilled flavour from its description.

Urban Soup Kitchen: Chicken Mulligatawny Soup (RMB 29/39)

A curry-flavoured soup of Anglo-Indian origins, mulligatawny soup garnered a huge following in New York City after Kramer said it was his favourite in Seinfeld’s ‘The Soup Nazi’ episode. 

The Urban Soup Kitchen’s version is made with red lentils, apple, squash, carrot, celery, sweet potato, onion and coconut milk, and is served on basmati rice. The result: slight sweetness from its fruit and vegetables, balanced by heavy curry spices.

PP: It’s a bit too much of one taste, like everything has been melted together.

EM: I was afraid it was going to be too hot for me, but luckily it wasn’t. I can taste the coconut milk too. I like that there are big chunks of vegetables, so it feels like you’re eating something substantial.

AC: Yeah, it’s generous – quite thick, and not so much soup. And it has a strong curry flavour. This one’s great for winter. I can see myself eating this on a cold January day.