Bar Review (South China): McCawley's Bar and Grill

By Alastair Dickie

What: The latest in Shenzhen's Irish Pub expansion

Where: Bldg 109, Coastal Rose Garden Phase 3, The Peninsula (near Wanghai Lu), Nanshan District, Shenzhen. Tel: (755) 2667 4361

How Much: Draft beers RMB 22 upwards; whiskey RMB 35 upwards; cider RMB 60 upwards

Why: For all the Irish hallmarks, and the craic

There are three certainties in life: death, taxes and the proliferation of Irish bars. Every country, every city in the world has at least one, and Shenzhen is doing just grand off the back of a roaring trade in several. With its original flagship location in Shekou and a second in downtown Futian, McCawley's has become something of an institution here in the SEZ. This reviewer can personally attest to large swathes of his memory happily surrendered within McCawley's shamrock green leather and polished wood interior, so it was therefore both heartening and distressing to learn that a third location had opened up in the housing and entertainment Peninsula development in downtown Nanshan.

Whatever protestations certain major organs may offer up, this newest installation did not disappoint. On the first floor, a rounded wooden (and well-stocked) bar faces out over a tiled floor the likes of which I've actually seen in Belfast itself, and large wooden booths that recall 18th century alehouses crowd around the walls. Upstairs a large open area is thronged with tables and a small stage set up for the various musical performances that go on during the week.

To my complete ruination, I arrived halfway through the grand opening party to be handed cider after cider after cider by the harried barmaid. Thankfully, on a less lethal night the drink prices are still good: draft Carlsbergs for RMB 22; Kronenbourg RMB 35; and there are more whiskeys (scotch, bourbon, Irish, Canadian, etc.) than even your most demanding Ulsterman could put down. The food is a little on the pricey side: toasted sandwiches are the cheapest mains for RMB 55, while larger more traditionally Irish dishes like the Beef and Guinness pie set you back a hefty RMB 95.

That said, the portions are large and satisfying, the staff quick and attentive and the atmosphere more than congenial. McCawley's knows its audience, and as a loyal fan myself I have to say I was more than happy with the newest addition to the McCawley's family.