New & Noted: Windsorborough
Windsorborough (South China)
By Alastair Dickie
What: British-style cooking done right
Where: 17 Lianfu Street, near Shayan Lu, Shenzhen. Tel: (755) 2555 1211
Why: You want authentic Western food without going to Hong Kong
Located in the historic Shatoujiao neighbourhood that marks the boundary between British-administered Hong Kong and the PRC (the nearby Zhongying street was quite literally split down the middle by authorities), Windsorborough is a rare find; a slice of home-style comforts in the most incongruous of places. Two minutes from the Hong Kong border, the restaurant is an unassuming little establishment decked out in warm orange tiling and simple decor. Run by a couple who operated a similar restaurant in the UK for almost a decade, the restaurant is quite understated, but everything is calculated to show off the food.
Which is really good. For starters, try the mixed vegetable salad (RMB 15). Freshly tossed lettuce with diced tomatoes, green peppers, red onions, shredded carrots and a smattering of sweetcorn, are doused in authentic balsamic vinegar. There are plenty of sides to choose from, but the crispy vegetable samosas (RMB 15) and spring rolls (RMB 12) are particularly worth mention.
Windsorborough’s signature dishes are its pizzas. The pepperoni (RMB 55) has an inch-deep base smothered in a rich and smoky tomato sauce shot through with a generous serving of crunchy pepperoni slices. The crust is perfectly crisp, and the amount of cheese drizzled over the top (and grilled to golden perfection) could sink a small ship.
If you’re not in the mood for pizza, try the sirloin steak (RMB 78) imported specially from Hong Kong. Served with a healthy serving of chips and vegetables, this juicy chunk of beef is probably the only real steak you’ll find in the whole of Shatoujiao, and is exceedingly good to boot.
Windsorborough also has an impressive collection of imported wines. Chilean, Australian and French wines are all served by the bottle (RMB 88). The Chilean Don Fernandez Cabernet Sauvignon is a treat; bold, heavy, deeply fruity and with a smoky edge to it, it is the perfect accompaniment to the sirloin steak.
All in all, Windsorborough is a rose amongst the thorns, spared the uniformly bland Westernisation that characterises downtown Shenzhen, a truly original restaurant. Well worth a visit.
