New & Noted: Bocca
Bocca
What: South Bund restaurant serving west/central and southern Italian cuisine
Where: 22 Zhongshan Dong Er Lu, near Xin Yong’an Lu. Tel: 6328 6598
Why: You’re looking for a taste of Tuscany
Bocca is a lovely spot on a pretty tranquil corner of the Bund with classy white décor, plush seating and dim lights, as well as the familiar, but ever magnificent Huangpu river view. Any good Italian starts with aperitivo, so first priority upon entering the bar with its marble counter and wide range of martinis, was to secure myself a tipple. The special sorbet mix (RMB 88), a blend of basil and moscato wine, lemon & vodka, kiwi & grappa, grapefruit & campari is an explosion of flavours – a true burst of summer, and had me optimistic about what was to follow.
The Italian Art of Dining' slogan on the menu, justifies its name when it comes to the squid and clam in light saffron mayonnaise with black squid ink and pesto drops (RMB 88), served as an appetiser.
Smoked fresh salmon sashimi style with quail egg, caper berry and toast (RMB 128) followed; it's not Pandora's box, though it is served in a jar, which on opening, releases a deliciously smoky scent, drawing you in to endeavour the fragrance and lush taste of the tender salmon sashimi.
The main course highlight was duck breast from the flat grill with pan fried goose liver and confit of chicken leg (RMB 268). Three types of poultry perfectly complemented each other, and were served alongside crisp, fresh vegetables.
Special mention also has to go to the homemade pastas. The pappardelle with prawn butter, king prawns and crisp Napoli spicy salami (RMB 148), a fettucini dish prominent from central Italy, is truly amorous in its richness.
Somehow I still found room for the dolci! And the Sicilian ricotta cheese cannoli (RMB 68) was an effective representation of true southern cuisine, even though Chef David Bassan’s roots are in Tuscany.
Roomy space, romantic ambience, friendly staff and reasonable prices meant my experience was a truly satisfactory one.
