Bar Review: The Public

What: Cocktail culture, American cuisine and commanding views over Fuxing Park

Why: The words ‘homemade bitters’ and ‘infused spirits’ make your heart flutter

How much: Cocktails from RMB 60; starters from RMB 45; mains from RMB 70

Where: Sinan Mansions, Bldg 1, 4F, Lane 507 Fuxing Zhong Lu, near Chongqing Nan Lu. Tel: 3368 9419

Here's the story: Apothecary is a bar in Beijing that won praise for its Creole cuisine, selection of bourbon and encyclopaedic cocktail menu. The owners hoped to replicate its success in Shanghai by grabbing a spot in Sinan Mansions and hiring local rising F&B star Adam Devermann (Velvet Lounge, Mesa/Manifesto) to manage. Quality wasn't lacking at Apothecary, but it just didn't fit Shanghai's flighty nightlife scene. Diners were required to have their entire party present before they could be seated. Patrons weren't allowed to stand at the bar. The menu, an impeccably researched tome on cocktail culture, confused more than it entertained. Something had to give, and it did. Apothecary officially quit the city, and The Public was born.

With The Public, Devermann has struck out on his own with new investors, Papaya Bar's cocktail guru Kyo-san and some know-how from marketing manager and F&B consultant, Min Yoo. Still, they have their work cut out for them. Where most establishments have the luxury to tinker through a soft opening period, The Public had to hit the ground running.

For the moment, there's a resemblance to Apothecary. Still, some immediate changes have been made. You can sit when you arrive. You can stand at the bar. There's now a simplified version of the menu, although the “Cocktail Bible” is available if you still want it. And in the days ahead? Expect a menu with a more pan-American flair and daily specials; the new Tuesday night family style rib eye special for RMB 250 is the first of many. A renovation of the interior is also up some time after Chinese New Year.

WIN! For your chance to win a voucher for two to The Public’s Tuesday US Choice Rib Eye special (valued at RMB 500), send an email to [email protected] with the most embarrassing thing you’ve done in public.