Bar Review: Mokkos Jiao Bar

What: Newest version of a hidden institution

Why: You’re looking for shochu, ska and a guaranteed seat

How much: Shochu RMB 35-55; Kirin draft RMB 35; snacks from RMB 25

Where: 68 Jinling Dong Lu, near Jiangxi Lu. Tel: 3331 6559

Shanghai’s determined dipsomaniacs all remember the first time they stumbled into the Mokkos on Wuding Lu. Tucked down a dark alleyway, you passed by it twice, didn’t you? And then when you finally made your way in, you got the last seat in the cramped confines, sandwiched between two couples at the small wooden bar. You felt a bit strange, but then the world dissipated into a haze of old school ska and rarified liquors made from sweet potatoes and rice – shochu, you wonderworker! The couples next to you became soulmates, and the night fuzzed into one great grin across your drunken face.

And you tried to go back, didn’t you? But every time that you did, Mokkos was full. Full! How dare they? Who are these people? Cretins! Ingrates! Don’t they know that this place is your treasure? Your preciousssss?

Building on the cult success of its first location, Kanoko, Kuma and Lamu, the easygoing, eternally-smiling trio behind Mokkos have decided go their separate ways and open up a second location. The original Wuding Lu location is now being run by Lamu (now known as Mokkos Lamu), and Kanoko and Kuma have set up Mokkos Jiao Bar. In most respects, it’s just like the original. The biggest difference is that where the first location is tiny, closet-like even, Mokkos Jiao is spacious with capacity for 100 people. Plus they’ve also got room for a small kitchen where they make bar snacks.

Tatami rooms, wood paneling, extensive shochu selection, reggae and ska grooving on the stereo – it’s all still there. And for the purist, yes, it is still difficult to find. Mokkos Jiao Bar is hiding out on what could be one of the deadest, darkest blocks in the city. I’m not giving you any hints on finding it. It’s time to relive the magic all over again.