Modern Takes on Classic Cuisine

 The House

What: A house away from home

Why: Finally … fondue!

How Much: RMB 150-200 per person, including fondue and wine

Where: House 102, 861 Jiangning Lu, near Haifang Lu. Tel: 5172 1161

The House feels more like its name than a restaurant. Located in a quiet corner of Jing’an, the unassuming lane house is equipped with an open-concept kitchen that fits only about two kitchen staff and a cosy seating area of five small tables. 

Besides Italian fare, the House’s true specialty is fondue. The restaurant’s owner, Michael Chan, previously opened Taikang Lu’s Café Mojo because of his love for coffee, and now he’s turning to his love for the European culinary pastime of cooking your own food. Chan, who moved to Shanghai from San Francisco, says his new restaurant is the answer to his tireless search for fondue in the city.

The House’s hot oil steak bourguignonne (RMB 165) comes with cubes of rib-eye steak, mushrooms and broccoli, which you stab with metal sticks and cook in a small communal pot of hot oil. While the deliciously seasoned meat comes out steamy and tender, the broccoli is more difficult to dip without getting a dangerous sputtering splash of oil. Save it for the end when the pot settles a bit.

Another set, the avocado Swiss cheese fondue (RMB 150) – served with cooked shrimp, chicken, carrots, tomatoes and French bread – is a new take on the classic Swiss meal and great for sharing with friends.

Since opening in July, the House has seen more visitors during breakfast and lunch hours. That’s probably because the majority of its menu is made of morning nosh and casual Italian dishes like Paninis, pizzas and pastas. The rosemary pumpkin soup (RMB 25) and spinach salad with honey mustard dressing (RMB 40) are both simple but safe bets.

For dessert, try the apple pie and brownie served with banana and a dollop of whipped cream. Traditionally rich and heavy sweets, the House does a decent job of making them lighter without compromising on their decadence.

The restaurant’s décor has details that many people might want to see in their own homes: stainless steel appliances, flooring and tables made with white marble imported from Greece, as well as an outdoor courtyard lined with bamboo to sit, dwell and relax in.

With these features and furnishings in its tiny venue, the House will make you feel right at home.

Next pages: Cristal, Restaurant Martin and Balthazar