Restaurant Review: 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana

What: High-end Italian cuisine imported from Hong Kong

Where: 6-7F, Mission Building, 169 Yuanmingyuan Lu, near Beijing Lu. Tel: 6087 2890

Why: The ‘King of White Truffles’ knows how to wow

That cobblestone stretch of road behind the Peninsula is the most egregiously under-utilised area in Shanghai. But if 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo is as prescient on the business side as they are talented in the kitchen, its opening at the empty (but downright charming) row is an indication of good things to come.

The Shanghai branch of the Hong Kong restaurant that boasts three Michelin stars, 8 ½ is Chef Umberto Bombana’s first foray into the Mainland dining scene. During soft opening, the restaurant limited its menu to a four course degustation (RMB 588) – a smart choice that showcased what they do best: extravagant Italian fine dining.

The amuse bouche, a high-end take on the classic caprese salad, uses burrata mozzarella made even more supple by adding cream. Flown in fresh daily from Italy, the delicate cheese offsets the salad of acidic cherry tomatoes and spicy arugula. Although we were initially disappointed that there were no pasta dishes on the menu, we were quickly reassured by the risotto (RMB 170 a la carte). The bowl of rice arrived swimming in a sharp parmesan cream tinted emerald by asparagus, zucchini and peas. The braised veal tongue on top succumbed to hours of cooking, breaking down until it defied the cut’s anatomical toughness and could be sliced easily with just a spoon.

The roasted pigeon breast (RMB 250 a la carte), cooked to a succulent medium rare, was outshown by its elaborate side: a sinfully extravagant button of foie gras wrapped in pork intestine and garnished with a sliver of black truffle. Even the scalloped apple tart – an admitted departure from the Italian culinary tradition – is a triumph, with its borderline lip-puckering tartness and sweet vanilla bean ice cream.