Six months ago Bangkok found itself playing host to Thailand’s most serious urban conflict in over 30 years. Each night, people from around the world tuned in to hear about an escalating protest in a country not known for its violence. The country is so dependent on foreign tourism and its public image that Thailand’s government decided to swiftly put an end to the month-long standoff. Like ripping off a band-aid covering a not-yet healed wound, Thailand’s recent history of political struggle suggests we haven’t seen the last of the whole red shirt/yellow shirt conflict. But Bangkok, the country’s ever-resilient capital, has maintained her composure throughout and has emerged smiling politely as always.

Bangkok’s ‘States’ of Emergency

While yes, the initial days of Bangkok’s ‘State of Emergency’ were rather heady and intense; the climate quickly cooled in the capital while the state of emergency has remained in place. Workers can be seen carelessly chatting on the skytrain and vendors fry up late-day snacks in the financial district as digital billboards advertise public warnings that feel a million miles away. Foreign embassies have a habit of issuing daunting travel advisories when a state of emergency is called pretty much anywhere in the world and the fact that Thailand seems intent on keeping its state of emergency alive sparks doubts and conflicting expectations. Rest assured however, that business is back on in Bangkok.

Rhythm of Life

Thais take their food seriously, and nowhere is that better reflected than in Bangkok, a city home to each and every example of Thailand’s culinary landscape. Most food worth eating in Bangkok isn’t expensive, and if you find yourself paying more than 30 dollars for a meal for two, you should be asking yourself why. It was, in fact, the Chinese who introduced street-side eating to Bangkok, and Yaowarat Road is where you’ll still find old classic stir-frys paired alongside bowls of pork-pepper soup and barbecued seafood.

If you’re in Bhanglamphu district for lunch, don’t think twice about popping into the Nang Loeng market for some Thai curry and rice. Austin Bush (austinbushphotography.com), a local food-writer and photographer, reckons Nang Loeng market (Th. Nakhorn Sawan) is home to Bangkok’s best green curry.

If the local definition of spice and hygiene is too much to handle, don’t leave without taking a few sweets for later. Thais and Bangkokians in particular are mad about sweets and eat them with fervour at just about any special occasion. The cakes at Nang Loeng are sweet, yes, but display savoury elements as well, a palm sugar and coconut steamed cake topped with fried shallots, the most prominent example of this phenomena.

Another food market worthy of mention is the Or Tor Kor Market (last station, BTS). The market offers up a plethora of barbecued meats, curries, soups, fruit and sweets seven days a week. Make your way over to the right side of the building where there are food court tables and chairs set up to satiate those who can’t wait to take their food home with them. For a late night snack that doesn’t involve the area around backpacker and all-around fake hippie hangout street Khao San Road, check out one of the many stalls beneath the Ratchathewi BTS station. Labelled by locals as ‘eastern Thai cuisine,’ the food here is fresh and full of flavour. Look from side to side and see what the other tables are ordering then follow suit. Cross your fingers for a grilled beef salad – smoked strips of beef tossed in a lime and oil dressing with shallots, mint leaves and a bevy of other herbs.

The papaya salad is ubiquitous at these little eateries, and vendors slice and mix their salads by hand using a large wooden mortar and pestle. Motion that you’d like less or more sweet, sour or salty and they’ll be more than happy to tailor your order. After all, this is what’s expected of people in this food forward city – an element happily unaffected by the recent political turmoil.

A River Runs Through It

If there ever were a city defined by a river, it would be Bangkok. Chao Phraya, or ‘River of Kings’ snakes its way down from the central plains and into the Gulf of Thailand, passing directly though Bangkok, ‘City of Kings.’ A sizable portion of Bangkok’s population uses the river’s transit system, the Chao Phraya Express, to commute from home to work every day, ensuring that this most regal of rivers remains as important to Bangkok today as it did hundreds of years ago.

Visitors shouldn’t be timid about using this surprisingly efficient mode of transportation to get around and do some monument spotting. Traversing the river is a great way to do a bit of fast-paced temple gazing as well. Start at the Oriental Pier and work your way north up the river passing Wat Muang Khae nestled behind high-rise apartment complexes and Wat Arun before getting a full frontal view of the imposing Grand Palace and the Bang Ao Mosque further upriver. The river transit system would have been one of the only usable forms of transit during the spring crisis as much of the BTS system was forcibly shut down. Long-time city residents would have had to reconnect with a river that originally gave the city life all those years ago.

Getting There

When we last checked flights from Shanghai to Bangkok (for after the October holiday rush), we found return tickets from RMB 2,700 (plus taxes), flying with Air China.

Web: www.ctrip.com.cn

Staying There

For a perfect mix of luxury and history, there is only one option worthy of consideration: the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok. With 358 rooms and 35 suites, the hotel does a fantastic job of making their guests feel personally catered to (there’s a three-to-one staff to guestroom ratio) with a private butler service regardless of room type and an extremely proactive service philosophy. This is how the Mandarin Oriental made its name.

The hotel maintains an authors’ wing, named after an impressive list of authors who’ve stayed there in the past. Prince Charles and Princess Diana stayed at the authors’ wing and the Mandarin Oriental still offers a traditional English tea each afternoon in the foyer of the wing. The spa consistently ranks among the best on earth and its restaurants offer some of the only haute cuisine worth going out of your way for. World class service and amenities don't come cheap, but Riverview rooms can be had for RMB 2,400. In all, a stay at the Mandarin Oriental is more than just a room for the night – it’s an experience all on its own: a living, breathing relic of Bangkok’s past.

The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. 48 Oriental Ave. Bangkok, Thailand. Web: www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok