Food For Thought
Each month, our dining columnist gives you all the news that’s fit to dish. Find out the newest hotspots and the latest closings, as well as the tastiest events in town for April.
Last month, Restaurant Magazine named the 50 Best Restaurants in Asia, and Shanghai was home to five for the second year running. Big congrats to Chef Paul Pairet – both Ultraviolet and Mr & Mrs Bund made the cut at eighth and eleventh, respectively. Fu 1015 from Tony Lu and the eponymous French bistro by restaurateur Franck Pecol were both back on the list as well, joined by newcomer Family Li Imperial Cuisine.
Speaking of Tony Lu, the Shanghainese chef’s new vegetarian restaurant officially joined his Fu empire in late March. Fu He Hui’s (1,037 Yuyuan Lu, near Jiangsu Lu. Tel: 3980 9188) menu is based on the chef’s Buddhist background, but don’t expect humble cuisine. Set dinners start at RMB 600, and the décor features antique furniture worth millions.
After five years in Shanghai, Mexican favourite, Maya, is adding a second smaller location. Expected to soft open, where Fat Olive Silver Court closed, in early April (just in time for everyone to enjoy that epic terrace), Mayita (228
Xizang Nan Lu, near Shouning Lu) will have a Mexi-Cali menu similar to its big sister restaurant.
Chef and chocolatier extraordinaire, Brian Tan, opened a new House of Flour (1,825 Beijing Xi Lu, near Wanhangdu Lu. Tel: 6260 7530) inside the Xinhua Bookstore near Jing’an Temple. The surprisingly charming locale owes a lot of creative décor, but the food is excellent. Go for the braised ox tongue with apples. Stay for the rich chocolate desserts.
Tan also has Starling, a new bar-cumcolonial restaurant opening in the Taixing Lu complex where el Willy’s Tomatito and new cocktail lounge will be. Also slated to open over the next two months is a punchbowl bar from Logan Brouse of Muse, an omakase restaurant from the chef behind Shintori, a new Turkish eatery from the Garlic guys and an English afternoon tea spot. We’ll keep an eye on that as things start soft opening next month.
Chi-Q (3 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, near Guangdong Lu), the Korean project from Chef Jean Georges in collaboration with his wife, has finally confirmed an opening date. Expect to nosh on kimchi and bulgogi come May. As Talk was going to press, Hakkasan (17 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, near Nanjing Dong Lu) was planning for a 28 March opening. The gamble of bringing high-end Chinese food to Shanghai has made for some interesting pre-opening buzz (and grumbles).
Just up the road, Paris Rouge (1F, YWCA Building, 131 Yuanmingyuan Lu, near Beijing Dong Lu. Tel: 5386 6011) is bringing the City of Lights to the cobblestone street with a menu of bistro favourites, like veal blanquette and pâté en croûte.
Across the Huangpu you’ll find French dessert. The newest mistress of the macaron comes from the delicious
vegetarian restaurant group Wujie. Cutesy Miss Ma (3/F, 100 Shiji Da Dao, near Lujiazui Huan Lu. Tel: 6877 7726)
serves pastel meringues flavoured with vegetables, like purple cabbage and carrot. They’re surprisingly delicious – it helps that there are plenty of chocolate pairings and the vegetables often impart little more than colour.
Urban Thai has opened a second location (393 Dagu Lu, near Chengdu Bei Lu Tel: 6327 1800) - and about time too!
With summer just around the corner, we believe their famous Thai iced tea should be disseminated as far and wide as possible.
A block away, Enoterra (53-57 Anfu Lu, near Wulumuqi Lu. Tel: 5404 0050) has launched a new Tuesday spring special to greet the change of seasons. From 7-10pm, free flow sparkling and rosé will run you only RMB 78 (and the deal is good at their other two locations).
Ginseng (39 Yongkang Lu, near Xiangyang Lu. Tel: 6416 0069) brought on Becky Lam, co-owner of Hong Kong’s globally-ranked cocktail bar Quinary, and she promises that the bar’s renovation and menu revamp is only the first example of the changes she’ll be implementing.
And in more well-shaken news, Union, the gastropub created by the Shamous collaboration between barkeep Yao Lu and chef Austin Hu, also looks to be on track for a May opening at the corner of Fuxing and Fenyang. Hu is also launching his happy hour with bartender Jackie Lo at Madison (3 Fenyang Lu, near Huaihai Lu. Tel: 6437 0136). From 4pm to 7pm, eight specialty cocktails are RMB 50, house wines RMB 40 and beer RMB 20.
Snacks are complimentary with each drink order – expect the rotating menu to include deep-fried rice balls, chicharrón and mini sandwiches.
Oyster Bar & Seafood Grille by Morton’s is jumping on the Tuesday oyster deal promotion. Just order a half dozen on the half shell, and receive a glass of wine on the house – or a full dozen and two glasses. They fly their oysters in fresh daily from around the globe, and offer nine varieties, including Kumamatos, West Coast Virgins, Fine de Clairs and Belon, starting at RMB 350 for a half dozen.