Taste Test
By Mat Ryan
Shanghai’s most committed dipsomaniacs get together to share and compare some of the wines around town. It’s a no-nonsense guide to the good, the great and the bloody ordinary of wine. Which wine will win the day this month?
Attendees:
Mat Ryan – Partner in The Shed
Brett Bradford – Fly boy pilot
Margie Terrell – Visitor from Oz
Lucy Terrell – Visitor from Oz
Taylor Bradford – Visitor from Oz
Alan Duffy – Partner in The Shed
Dave McClean – Quite possibly the best voiceover man in Asia
Mustili Falanghina Sant’Agata dei Goti, Italy
Just as well we started with this, as it would have surely gotten harder to pronounce later in the night. It’s fair to say the girls liked it more than the guys, but I think that’s definitely where the wine is aimed at. I thought it was a little bit “muscaty”. We all put it with cheese on a nice summer day outside, and of course, sitting on an Italian beach. I had to do some research on the grape varietal. To be honest, it’s a first for me, and it is going to be a tough sell to Chinese consumers. It’s one of those wines that will need to be placed in the hands of the consumer to appreciate, but nearly anything outside Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz is. Final comments from Margie, “It’s a great ladies-that-lunch wine”.
Price: RMB 270
Carm Duoro Reserva, Portugal
A few choice words came out of my mouth after I first tasted this. It is a massive wine. I knew straight away I’d messed the order up and should have had this one last. “Earthy and dirt tones, not dissimilar to a Tassie pinot,” said Brett. “Well rounded, no edges,” added Alan. This is one of the better made wines I’ve had in quite a long time. Dave, who was obviously partaking in some amber refreshments before joining the tasting, thought it would go well with a nice dish of dolphin or koala. Pretty sure (hoping) he was joking, the girls put it with a light lamb or beef dish. Me, I’m putting it with the moose roadkill stew that Alan made earlier, brought in by Brett last week on one of his flights to Alaska.
Price: RMB 318
Luigi Bosca Cabernet Sauvignon, Italy
The girls said the nose is great, but not quite as full on the palate as expected. Brett was not a massive fan of it, but I completely disagreed. To me, this is damn good. This wine very nearly caused some fights. Dave said it was “the Barbara Streisand of wine – the nose is fantastic, but not the best body”. Alan was on my side and loved it. It did need time to open up and once it did, even Dave came around to it, saying, “It started as Barbara Streisand and ended up as Halle Berry.” It’s definitely a beef wine. We asked the question, “What would you pay for it?” In Australia, the girls are paying AUD25, which is about where it comes out here – an absolute bargain in my opinion. One of those you have to try to believe the value you are getting.
Price: RMB 180
Summary
With seven people at the tasting table this month, it was hard to get a good mouthful of the samples, but we topped these off with cleansing ales between each taste. Basically it was a dead heat between the second and third choices. Although nearly impossible to split, with the price, the cabernet has the win in a photo finish.
All wines available from www.force8wines.com
Sherpa’s Wine of the Month: Yllum Late Harvest Chardonnay 2010
As the delivery giant’s first foray into dessert wine, the Yllum Late Harvest Chardonnay is a solid choice. Honey and floral hit high notes here, with fruity resonance coming from apricots and baked apples. While it’s exceptional paired with sweets, it also holds its own when up against fried Asian appetisers. Give it a go with spring rolls!
Price: RMB 102
Web: www.sherpa.com.cn
