Gubei Focus
West of Xujiahui is Gubei. It’s a loose rectangle, stretching east and west a few kilometres from its Hongmei Lu centre, with Hongqiao Lu as the northern border and Wuzhong Lu patrolling the south.
While you’d never accuse Gubei of being set in its ways (this is Shanghai, after all), it does feel more aged than the brash Pudong or the rambunctious Jing’an. Whereas in downtown suburbs, an “old China hand” rating is measured in years, here it’s scaled in decades.
Gubei is a somewhat strange combination of old and young. As one of the earliest expatriate communities, both its buildings and residents betray a sense of “been there, done that.” They’ve seen the rise of downtown Shanghai and Pudong, but have remained just far enough out of reach to have gone their own way. Here, bartenders know their customers' names, habits and families. Residents have seen both their own, and their friend’s children grow up.
That’s not to say Gubei is an intractable sort. This is an area that boasts Simply Thai, Element Fresh, Big Bamboo and Dragonfly after all. Moreover, with the mass of kids clubs and family activities surrounding Hongmei Lu, it’s as energetic a place as anywhere in Shanghai. But while accepting the new, Gubei has retained the old: the sense of community, those wide open roads, neighbours who linger beyond meaningless pleasantries and a sense that here you are experiencing expat Shanghai’s heartland.
Furthermore, there are some of the best Japanese and Korean shops and restaurants in Gubei, as the area supports one of the centres of these two communities in Shanghai.
If you’re looking for a less frenetic, less transient weekend, 24 hours would be well spent in Gubei.
EAT AND DRINK
Gubei is first choice for your sushi, wasabi and kimchi fix, with a stock of Japanese and Korean supermarkets and restaurants huddled around Carrefour. Branching off Hongmei Lu is the pedestrian food street – a fixture in Gubei since the beginning – featuring cuisines from all points of the compass, including Iranian, Indian, Mexican, Japanese, Thai and many more.
Hongmei Lu Leisure Pedestrian Street
The Hongmei Lu Leisure Pedestrian Street features dozens of international and local cuisines. Restaurant and/or bar choices include Chinese, Indian, Thai, Iranian, North American and European amongst others. For pedestrians only, sitting outside without any cars streaming by is a rare pleasure in Shanghai.
3338 Hongmei Lu. Tel: 6465 8088. Web: www.hmxxj.com
Café Bon Matin Paris
This authentic French-style bakery café is a hit with both locals and expats. They offer brunches, afternoon teas and a selection of tempting continental fare. It’s a great place to enjoy a well-deserved moment of French-style relaxation while you treat yourself to a fine selection of freshly-baked breads, fruit waffles, French and Dutch pastries, crème brulée and also some savory selections. The Afternoon Tea Set comes highly-recommended and is certainly one of Café Bon Matin Paris’ most popular offering, with freshly-baked waffles, all-natural sandwiches and creamy cheesecakes.
Café Bon Matin Paris, 506 Huangjincheng Avenue. Tel : 3209 7001